paint process
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hi guys. i was referred to this site from a member on another site, team chevelle. i am working on a 66 chevelle and have done all of the work myself. now has come time to really get into the body. all the panels needing replaced have been done. i have not done any painting in over 20 yrs and that was just a piece here or there, so i am totally new to this stuff.
i have been working with a buddy who has done a few cars but he is also out of the loop on new products. i have read a lot of articles and TDS sheets and the confusion just gets deeper, so please bear with me if i am making this too complicated.
the local jobber that i have been dealing with carries PPG. i was going to use Omni then i read a bunch of negative about that so now thinking Deltron line, more expensive, but still manageable. another possible would be BASF. I know i have to stick with the same line once i start, thats where the real problem is. I have bumped all the minor dings out in the original panels to real close to perfect. my buddy keeps talking about doing straightboarding with filler, then etching primer and high build then back to straightboarding. from what i have read, epoxy has replaced etching primer but must be covered within set time, i think 7 days for Deltron? which is the better product, if there is one? also, should i do any filling and straightboarding before epoxy or spray epoxy and highbuild first then go to filler as needed? i have always done and had sucess with filler direct to clean metal.
sorry for the longwinded post, just trying to cover all my questions and get started on this process with some confidence that the end product will come out correct and last.
Pat
Welcome to the site :cheers You came to the right place for tech talk there are many members here who will help you.I am also a team chevelle member and offer advice in the paint forum my handle is crazy canuck.You will be fine doing your filler work on bare metal after the panel has been sanded with 80grit you can apply your filler.Finish your filler in 120-180 apply one good coat of epoxy and wait the minimum flash or overnight to apply 3-4 coats of 2k urethane high build primer.Next you can long board your primer with 180 put on 3 more coats of 2k,block with 400,seal and paint.You can save some money by using omni epoxy and urethane primers and deltron base and clear for the topcoat.Many people have done that with no issues to save a buck.I will walk you through your project if you need the help one question at a time if need be :cheers
Welcome man. Its a good decision to go with PPG Deltron over Omni. I would definitely recommend using an Epoxy Primer than self etching primer. Epoxy will create a rust proof barrier if the metal is properly treated.
First major Question is what condition it the body/Panels in ? ( Are they the original paint condition, have they been stripped, do the new panels have a black primer like coating on them ?)Jayson M….thanks for the reply. nice to see another TC member, i have seen your handle and you have probably answered some of my questions over there, i use the same name to keep it simple. thanks for the offer to answer questions as they come up. i feel a bit more sure that i am on the right track now and can really get it started.
Ahopkinson46…..the roof, one qtr, and the firewall are all original. i stripped them down with aircraft stripper and treated with phospate to slow the rust. the rest of the body had to be replaced. i used AMD as sheetmetal source and have the EPDM on them, which is tough. i tried to wipe with laquer thinner and nothing happened. the rear deck filler panel is not coated, but treated with phosphate. i have original fenders that are in pretty rough shape, so i picked up a aftercrash, i think they are dynacorn, have not checked fit yet as body is on rotesserie
My shop is pretty stable and i have not had any rusting, but its time to get everything covered up. why do you ask about the EPDM? i have been told it can stay but scuff with red scotchbrite pad and i have been told to remove it completely….which is the best practice?
Thanks for the reply last nite, nice to get such quick responses.Now this what I do with all my restorations. I use a 9″ purple “Hamburger Pattie” which are the larger version of the 3M roloc version. Now I use that on a Makita sander and sand down any original paint. Then I like use metal conditioner and converter and its made by PPG. Next I will Repair any body panels that need to be replace/repaired and then do all my metal work. Make sure you get all your body panels Aligned and Gaped at this point in the process, because sometimes after market panels will not have the same lines, contours, and fit like original panels. Then I will block the the whole body with 80 and then sometimes with 150, and remove the EPDM coating ( Or sometimes just 150). Now its time for Epoxy primer, usually this is just two medium coats. After that I will block the whole car with 150 or 180 and now its time to do any fill work. Sometimes I like to use a Polyester primer if there was alot of filler done. Next is to use a Urethane primer and block that out with 220 and apply a second round of Urethane Primer block it out with 400 and then 600. Now all you have to do is Seal, Paint, Clear.
I would strip off all of your paint whether its lacquer or whatever,no point in doing it over an unknown substrate.As far as your aftermarket panels electro deposit primer is not as safe as it used to be,most oem stuff is pretty good but aftermarket parts should be stripped with 80 on a da.On many aftermarket parts for restos I have seen small amounts of corrosion under the primer.You can chemical strip use the old knuckle duster da or a makita polisher or big air grinder with an 8inch pad with 80-40 grit at low speed to strip the paint,then go over it with a da and 80,your now ready for metal work.I prefer filler over bare metal but over epoxy is ok too,just not my thing as I have tried it.I’ll stop there that is plenty for now.
i read the replies that i received. i da’d the roof today with 80 grit and did a skim coat as i kenw there were some low spots after doing hammer and dolly. i will knock that down tomorrow and see what i have. quick question….how do you thin the filler to make it flow better? i have seen it on tv where t looks like water but mine always seems thick mixing as directed. i am using rage brand…..
There are a couple of ways,you can use plastik honey http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=15
or use a pourable putty like metal glaze http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1
Just add it to your filler and mix it to the consistency that you want before you add the hardener.
This is the filler we use at the shop,it is new on the market and have been very impressed with it,I was not an evercoat fan before I tried this stuff http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=330
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