Paint Stripping
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I started stripping the bed of my truck this afternoon. Both bedsides were replaced and I shot some 2k primer over the top of the ecoat before I painted it last time. How critical is it to get all of the e coat removed before applying epoxy? It just seems like it is taking forever to get the stuff off. I’m using some 80 grit on my buffer and running at the slowest speed making sure I don’t get the metal too hot. I’m then going over the top of that with some 80 grit on the da to get off any of the existing primer that I didn’t get with the buffer. Everything feels smooth. It’s just like it’s etched into the metal.
This is what it looks like:
[URL=http://s633.photobucket.com/user/xtremekustomz/media/Silverado/ecoat2_zpscc882e51.jpg.html][IMG]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/xtremekustomz/Silverado/ecoat2_zpscc882e51.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
If whatever is left is in good condition (good adhesion, no chips, no pitting) and is feathered out decently than it is good. Just make sure that after you prime it, you block it straight so any of that profile won’t show through.
More importantly, watch that you don’t strip off much of the zinc coating from the bare metal. That is like a galvanized coating and can help prevent corrosion.
For sure. I’m hitting it with 180 before I epoxy. I figure 2 coats of epoxy and 2-3 coats of 2k, block with guide coat with 180 and then shoot 2 more coats of 2k and block with 500. Sound good? The longest block I have right now is 11″ I think. Should I go get a 16″ or 24″? I know to cross block as well ////\\
What you are doing will work well. You are making a bigger job of it than I would, but you should net great results in the end.
You can use as long of a block as you want, but what you have should be plenty good
You are making a bigger job of it than I would, but you will get good results your way. Your 11″ block is fine, but you could use as long of a block you feel necessary.
Ultinately you are just ensuring the paint edges/grinding marks are straight, the panel should already be completely straight (at least as straight as any stamped sheet metal is).
If you wind up priming a second time, you may want to initially cut the primer with 320-400. 500 may be a rad fine to start with. Are you finishing with 500 or going to 600?
I’m finishing with 500. I probably be using a sealer before the basecoats go on. How would you go about doing it? The bed should be as straight as it can get. There are no dents or dings in it.
[quote=”xtremekustomz” post=32791]I’m finishing with 500. I probably be using a sealer before the basecoats go on. How would you go about doing it? The bed should be as straight as it can get. There are no dents or dings in it.[/quote]
As far as the priming goes, I would either prime it once, block it straight starting with 220-320 then work up to 400-500. Then seal it. Or if not sealing it, prime it the 2nd time and go from 400-600 with that.
I assume there was a problem with the existing paint, other wise I wouldn’t have bothered stripping
Yeah there were small bubbles under the black basecoat. Not sure why it did that. On another note it looks like it will be raining all day/weekend. Is it safe to prime while it’s raining? Obviously it must be or how would other shops get anything done?
Nothing wrong with the rain. As always, if it is humid (especially if its warm) watch for water in the compressed air.
You mentioned that you had a lot of small bubbles under your last paint job. If your doing this at home make sure you have some sort of water trap when your doing all your primer work. A lot of times moisture in the lines can cause issues like that.
Chuck
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