Painting a single stage metallic 2K
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OK chaps, I have pretty much decided that this ’87 Cadillac I have here will get a quick and inexpensive repaint in a single stage metallic. No primer, no clear coat, no worries? Right? LOL.
I’ve never used these single stage 2K paints before. I started out with Synthetic Enamel, progressed onto cellulose/lacquer and from there to clear on base.
Any tips, tricks or advice for a home-user with the single stage 2K?
I have a few misconceptions perhaps – one is that as the metallic is in the paint you apply does this mean you can’t colour sand it (like you don’t colour sand a basecoat)?
Also any tips about best prep for the substrate before spraying it would be welcome.
Thanks in advance guys.
[quote=”alistair” post=21088]OK chaps, I have pretty much decided that this ’87 Cadillac I have here will get a quick and inexpensive repaint in a single stage metallic. No primer, no clear coat, no worries? Right? LOL.
I’ve never used these single stage 2K paints before. I started out with Synthetic Enamel, progressed onto cellulose/lacquer and from there to clear on base.
Any tips, tricks or advice for a home-user with the single stage 2K?
I have a few misconceptions perhaps – one is that as the metallic is in the paint you apply does this mean you can’t colour sand it (like you don’t colour sand a basecoat)?
Also any tips about best prep for the substrate before spraying it would be welcome.
Thanks in advance guys.[/quote]
Single stage is generally pretty easy to apply. Metallic single stage can be a little tricky. The issue is that you need to spray the product wet enough to get a smooth glossy finish, but also control the metallics so as not to mottle them or get tiger stripes. Because of the metallics you do not want to do much (if any) sanding/polishing afterwards. A little denibbing here or there is ok, but aggressive sanding is not a good idea. I have sprayed a lot of metallic single stage (acrylic urethane, polyurethane, acrylic enamel and alkyd enamel). Most of which with very good results. Golds and silvers probably aren’t a great idea…but darker metallic colours generally work well.
As far as prep goes, you said you have a good 2k (iso-cyanide free) primer to use? Prep the primer according to the tech sheet. If there isn’t much bodywork, you are probably good to block it with 320-400 and finish around 500 for the single stage (again, check the sheet for the product you are using). If you are sanding wet, I would probably finish with 600. Whatever brand you use, I would recommend using a good quality acrylic urethane (like PPG Concept).
I have sprayed some old BASF synthetic enamel and found it wasn’t too different from spraying acrylic enamel (which isn’t much different than spraying acrylic urethane). I wouldn’t worry about it too much, just read the tech sheets and follow the directions.
Thanks, will let you know how I get on
One ore thing – I presume I “drop coat” it as I would do if it were a basecoat?
No it is a different technique for SS metallic.Drop coat for base means to drop your air pressure and increase your distance,if you did this for single stage it will mottle.When spraying a metallic SS on a complete you want to do 3-4 panels,then come back to where you started and increase your distance and keep you pressure the same and fog it on to the panels in the opposite direction.Then go spray a few more panels,then come back and fog the area to even out the metallics.Let your first coat set up really good before coat # 2,if you get on it too soon you will see the metallics start to move around :stoned If you have good gun control you will only have to do this on your last coat.Spraying SS metalics is a lost art,not very many painters can do this anymore,so be warned,this can be tricky for someone with limited experience.We still do lots of it on semis at work with imron and delfleet and utech.I strongly suggest doing a junk fender or hood so you can get the hang of it.Give your self more gun distance vs spraying basecoat,it will cut down on tiger stripes.This is where a good old fashioned Devilbiss JGA or MBC or Binks #7 will work great.Good Luck 😉
Thanks. I have an older suction feed high pressure gun, not a JGA but a similar design, this might be the better gun to use for this then.
By opposite direction do you mean right-left instead of left-right or do you mean go vertical passes instead of horizontal?
I tend to walk the length of the car as a pass, am I better passing a panel at a time with single stage?
If you spray side to side when you come back to fog it go up and down.You can spray however you like,just come back and fog a few panels.I would spray roof and trunk,then go spray right quarter and door,then go fog roof and trunk,go do left quarter and door,then go and fog the right side get it..clear as mud :stoned Like I said before spray your first coat medium and see how the metallics lay out,if everything goes well no need to fog/mist it.When I do my second coat that is usually when I will fog/mist it just to make sure the metallics are laid out properly.
Al, I’d be sorely tempted to go base & clear if you really want a metallic.
Not much more work really, but a much better chance of getting it right. You can concentrate on getting the colour right with the base, and getting the finish right with the clear, rather than trying to do it all at once.
It might just be the fact that I’ve never used a single stage 2K metallic, but to be honest, it’s something I personally would avoid if at all possible. Straight colour sure, it’d be my first choice, but not metallic.
yep i agree, some lower end base/clear systems are actually cheaper than ss paint nowadays and are easier to work with especially with metallic colors
The other guys are right,do your self a favor and do it in base clear,single stage metallic can be difficult if you have never sprayed it before.
Once again thanks for the replies. You are probably right that COB is the way to go. I can wet sand and polish the clear and I am familiar with the application…
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