Painting Black Cars

Home / Forums / Main Forum / Paint and Refinish / Painting Black Cars

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • April 28, 2008 at 8:36 pm #10242

    We have been having trouble with black cars,seem they look good till about a week later then they die.Weve tried to let the base dry before clearing and even stepped up to a better clear and it dont seem to help,just wondering if we should try another tecninue or what.Would appreciate any help on this.

    Anonymous
    April 28, 2008 at 8:43 pm #10243

    whats your gun setup like. If your using to small of a tip or dialing in a larger one, you might not be getting enough material on it to resist fading.

    also are you using a sealer and giving good flash times?

    April 28, 2008 at 8:55 pm #10244

    We are using an Iwata 400 1.4 head for both base and clear.The sealer we are using I try to give it about 30 minutes to flash before base I know this is kinda embarrassing as good as it looks when it comes outa the paint room then after a week or so it looks as dull as a banana peeling.

    Anonymous
    April 28, 2008 at 9:00 pm #10245

    equiptment sounds good provided your not dialing in your gun. are you polishing them & waxing?

    (I know comebacks definitely are embarassing, we just got a peeling bumper …. looks very bad on the shop)

    April 28, 2008 at 9:09 pm #10246

    Yea we polished one of them it was 2000 Galant.It looked real good and then about 2 weeks the owner came by and asked why was it dull in a few areas,anyway we buffed it again and it looks good now really hope I dont see it again,just too much work and we only get paid once.

    Anonymous
    April 28, 2008 at 9:24 pm #10248

    On black vehicles a lot of people try to cheat when polishing by using wax instead of a really fine compound. Certain wax’s will not allow your clear to release solvent’s which it will continue to do while curing, this can cause dieback. I’d check with whomevers polishing them that their not waxing, its not as much of a problem for people baking their jobs…but either way its not a good practice. Other then sealers, enough clear & waxing, I’m left with too much material, but that usually diesback before it even leaves. Paint companies also recommend hardening blacks usually, in all honesty I don’t remember why. I don’t think it was for dieback but I could be wrong. I’ve always just done it, I’ll see if I can find out why they recommend it.

    Anonymous
    April 28, 2008 at 10:19 pm #10249

    is there more material ei:fillers and surfacers where the die back occurs? the more material , the further the solvents have to travel.

    April 29, 2008 at 12:47 am #10253

    I havent thought about adding hardener to the base I wonder if that would help?I try not to bury paint on top of paint,just color it and clear.We did a single stage black car and it looked good and still had a good gloss a month later,its just the cars we clearcoat.We usually cut and buff all clearcoats after they sit outside a day or so.I even bought the SOLO system for buffing

    Anonymous
    April 29, 2008 at 1:13 am #10254

    I usaully end up buffing every thing , just to get rid of the tight pig skin look that comes after a day or two

    Anonymous
    April 29, 2008 at 10:52 am #10256

    how much reducer are you putting in your clear.

    i worked beside a guy years ago that used to get beutifull finish’s with clear on ever job almost glass like even on sides
    I watched him thinning his clear one day and suddenly relized how he was doing it, he was way over reducing the clear.

    Then as time went on i saw some of his work come back the finish’s had died this was down to the over reducing. looked great to start with but there was obvisouly still some evaporation of the clear going on as the jobs left the shop.

    April 29, 2008 at 3:27 pm #10258

    Thanks for all the replies everyone,we are doing a black BMW today.I think I will try the usual 4 to 1 clear without reducing it,giving about 20 minutes flash and see what we have.

    April 29, 2008 at 8:54 pm #10261

    ive seen the samething on some of my clears i use ta use the clear i use now i havent had any problems with an i get even better hold out shooting wet on wet sometimes when clears die like that i know its becuz a guy is traping solvents with some of the new clears its hard not ta do if your a real hoser when ya paint somtimes a different gunsetup can help? somtimes i think a guy has ta change the clear ta suit the way ya spray also i never go over 2 coats with the new clears that really helped me but im shooting em with a rp 1.3 an i think that thing lays it a little heavyer than the iawata lph dieback sux an with alota dieback the durabuility goes all ta shit!!!ta be honest i always add a little reducer ta all my 4 ta 1 clears but only about 5% kinda funney that the clears we used 10 yrs ago never seemed ta have these problems BUT they had to have 3 coats to!!! low solids an a ton of solvent made them very user freindly but know everything is high solids an a little twitchyer when it comes ta gun setup dont be afaid ta experiment till ya get a combo that works;) imo a little reducer can help alot as long as ya dont over do it

    May 2, 2008 at 1:56 am #10281

    what clear are you using. if its dupont 7900 its more than likely the clear.It sound like something is trapping your solvents.if your baking them try letting one air dry.we had some major problems with 7900 with dieback and gloss retention.

    May 2, 2008 at 4:51 am #10283

    Im using 2021 PPG on most of my jobs.We shot a Jeep Cherokee this morning and used the Napa Crossfire clear and it layed pretty slick for a budget paint job.Dont know how it will look tomorrow but something has to work.Big price difference between the 2021 and the Napa stuff>

    May 2, 2008 at 5:22 am #10284

    witch crossfire clear did ya use???

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.