Painting Black Cars
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I believe it was the 15350 Super Brillant with medium hardener.Seemed to lay pretty good,at three coats with an Iwata 400 gun.
ya wanna try what i think is better????of course im shooting an rp??
ta be honest i think 3 coats is pushing it on a black anymore but thats just my opinion;)
Just thought I would give it an extra coat to offset ta buffing.
Just a thought, I have found that if i want to get a really good finish with black,I spray the vehicle last thing,de nib any spots and reapply final coat of base and let sit overnight.Most products have a window where you can leave base un topcoated for a period of time. I then spray clear the next morning and bake. This seems to give the best results and hold out is much better and the finish doesn’t seem to pinch off. I have even used two step bake, 15 minute bake,cool down,15 minute bake. Activating base is ok but I have found that if you have dirt problem or other,it is harder to scuff base without it plugging paper and cutting the base.
You should always put hardener in your basecoat. It makes a *huge* difference in durability (and doesn’t require much).
Some of the main causes of dyeback/dulling are;
1. Topcoat applied in heavy, wet coats.
2. Inadequate flash time between coats.
3. Insufficient film thickness of topcoat color or clearcoat.
4. Insufficient drying/curling of undercoats before applying clear.
5. Using a poor grade and/or too fast evaporating thinner/reducer for spray conditions.
6. Improper cleaning of the substrate.
7. Insufficient air movement during and after application.
8. Spraying over a deteriorated or solvent sensitive substrate finish without proper priming or sealing procedures.http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/loss_of_gloss/index.cfm
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