painting new bumper cover
- This topic has 22 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 1 month ago by .
- Posts
wondering best way and process to paint new bumper cover. Tried bulldog didnt like way it laid out. So wondering if didnt apply right or waited to long between that and base. Or i did something else wrong. Any input would be nice. On best ways to go about painting bumper cover. Start to finish.
Depends on the bumper. Primed plastic is prepped differently than raw plastic. Raw gets cleaned and scuffed, adhesion promoter then sealer the base and clear. Primed gets sanded them sealer then base and clear. I would stay away from bulldog and use tha ap from your paint system
Just like Ding said. And DON’T cheap out and avoid the sealer, a good 2k urethane sealer is an absolute must!!! Most paint companies make their adhesion promoter in an aerosol can if you prefer it that way, and it isn’t too terribly expensive.
using croma base and the bumper is (new)(raw) how much flex adidtive and when and how long set times? Thanks for replies.
Obtain a TDS (technical data sheet) for the products you are using, read and follow it closely.
I use chroma base all the time. Like you, I did not like the Bulldog product either. I use a generic adhesion promotor from Carolina Auto Supply in Charlotte NC 800-438-4070 they only sell to business’ wwwautosupplyhouse.com On light metallics try a grey schothpad. I use ‘scuff stuff’ that is kinda like soft scrub, but rinses clean and is designed for auto paint prep. Unlike Ben, I cheap out and don’t use the sealer, never had a problem, but most procedures do call for it. I just painted a cover this morning, It was preprimed from the supplier. The adhesion promotor is the flex agent. I lightly dry sanded it with a small sheet of 6oo , so I could see where I was.Since your bumoer is raw, leave out the 600 step, Then wet scuff with a grey pad and scuff stuff. I gave it a light coat of the generic promoter, just to assure good adhesion as the front cover catches all the road crap, cheap insurance. Base, clear. Works every time! Bill
With raw plastic you also want to make sure there is no mold release agent left on the bumper, once you have prepped the bumper per your paint manufacturers recommendation spray the bumper down with isopropyl alcohol/water mix and make sure that the bumper does not bead up. Also if you happen to come across one of the lovely reconditioned bumpers that have the funky thick primer on it make sure you sand all the orange peel out of the primer or else all of that orange peel will show in the finished product.
If you are the least bit concerned with any type of warranty follow the paint manufacturers recommendations, if you don’t your on your own. I have been paid on several redo’s with aftermarket primed bumpers due to the suppliers primer failing. Sucks to have a paint failure but we are at least getting paid to do it again.Chuck
I vote for sealer as well….not a fan of basing on raw plastic or a primed bumper.Bulldog adpro is junk in my book.
Ding, Could you describe that “proper” process? I guess the reason I don’t use the sealer is because the product I have been using is Nason single stage, it must be enamel base. It dries slow and is not perfect slick. None of my suppliers have a 2k sealer like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nason-422-52-Urethane-Sealer-/180955421213?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2a21c89a1d&vxp=mtr I’m sure I could order some. What do you PRO’s use? Bill
I find it hard to believe your Jobbers dont carry a 2k sealer :huh: Nason has a few different ones. Sealers is required to provide proper adhesion to the substrate. Top coats are not designed to go over raw materials (plastic, metal, etc) Also sealer helps provide the appropriate film build for the whole paint system. to little film build over bare substrates can cause paint failure.
In one post you say you use nason SS in another you say you use Chromabase all the time. Which one is it. I Know for a fact Dupont does not recommend base coat or single stage to go directly over A/P without a primer/sealer. Check out there TDS sometime. It’s always good to read them.[quote=”Jayson M” post=27141]I vote for sealer as well….not a fan of basing on raw plastic or a primed bumper.Bulldog adpro is junk in my book.[/quote]
X2….. sealer is a mustgot the bumper cover today and its infact primed inside is still raw plastic. So can i use premoter and base and clear. Also the project became another pain in my BUTT… Went and shoot the jams and the dam paint dont match. so off to the paint supplier i went and brought with me the old bumper cover and a section that i tested their paint on to show them difference. Then had them shoot the bumper cover with their camera and guess what their camara came up with a different code. But they tried telling me that i didnt use right temp reducer and the metalic stood up which gave me a different color. I said is so why did camera come up with different color. And if metalic stood up why does it laid down flat. So tomorrow im having them come to garage and shoot the door for a color match. and hope for the best. Any thoughts out their on this. Idea of whats wrong me or them or what maybe i might be doing wrong. Using a devillbiss gun croma base paint 1 to 1 mixture also tried less reducer which helped a little. 45 psi which is recommended. but also tried less. instruction say 1 to 1 mixture and 45 psi which i tried. it seemed to lay out fine to me. But they say wrong temp reducer. It was in garage. And i used mid temp reducer. It didnt look like went on dry. and laid down like normal I thought. But id say if paint code used to mix paint and the camera are to differnt colors then i would say color mixed is wrong.Garage was 74 degress
[quote=”skz71″ post=27171]got the bumper cover today and its infact primed inside is still raw plastic. So can i use premoter and base and clear. Also the project became another pain in my BUTT… Went and shoot the jams and the dam paint dont match. so off to the paint supplier i went and brought with me the old bumper cover and a section that i tested their paint on to show them difference. Then had them shoot the bumper cover with their camera and guess what their camara came up with a different code. But they tried telling me that i didnt use right temp reducer and the metalic stood up which gave me a different color. I said is so why did camera come up with different color. And if metalic stood up why does it laid down flat. So tomorrow im having them come to garage and shoot the door for a color match. and hope for the best. Any thoughts out their on this. Idea of whats wrong me or them or what maybe i might be doing wrong. Using a devillbiss gun croma base paint 1 to 1 mixture also tried less reducer which helped a little. 45 psi which is recommended. but also tried less. instruction say 1 to 1 mixture and 45 psi which i tried. it seemed to lay out fine to me. But they say wrong temp reducer. It was in garage. And i used mid temp reducer. It didnt look like went on dry. and laid down like normal I thought. But id say if paint code used to mix paint and the camera are to differnt colors then i would say color mixed is wrong.Garage was 74 degress[/quote]
Sealer is a must… inside doesnt matter. if its primed outside scuff with grey scotch brite, sealer,base and clear
What about premoter or flex additive???
[quote=”skz71″ post=27174]What about premoter or flex additive???[/quote]
No need for promotor if the cover is primed. I like to flex my sealer tho.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.