Painting primed panel.
- This topic has 41 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 6 months ago by .
- Posts
Overnight is usually best.
For minor defects in clear, stating with 1500 and finishing with 2000-3000 is typical.
If you are getting a run out it is usually easier (and will make it flatter) to use something else first. I usually use a new razor blade (with tape on the edges) to file it down. Then proceed to blocking with 1500, then 2000, then a little 3000 before cut polishing.
If the run is really bad, it is generally quicker to flatten it down then re-sand the entire panel and reclear it.
I will give it 24 hours. I will make you proud; just wait till tomorrow late night.
Thank you again for all the help!
-Michael
BTW, about that razor blade technique, I suppose you tape it right up against the run and not cut but drag the blade over the clear between the tape?
The video shows the method, however, what I do is put a piece of 3/4″ tape on both ends of the razor blade so I am just filing with the centre section. This prevents causing damage from the sharp corners of the blade. I also go further with the razor then the guy with the video, and minimize sanding. Sanding, even with a coarser grit and hard block will not get it as straight as the razor will.
It is tricky and dangerous, so be very cautious. Also, be prepared to possibly have to respray it, just in case…
give this a try i actually did finally on a black suby an have ta admit it worked pretty darn good 😉
LOL. Y’all call that runs? Glad that I didn’t put up my “fail” photo.
Let me rephrase this, I got a lotta runs. I fixed a few last night, having nothing to do after dinner, started sanding a few down with 600 grit on my finger just on the run and block-sanded it with 1000.
BMerchant, I think I like your method better than the rest as it is not as aggressive with sharp stuff.
I may have to do that on a massive scale though. :rofl
I suppose I can use that with any body filler? El cheapo Bondo brand Bondo?
I am going to wet-sand all the panels I have cleared.
Use a polyester finishing putty, it is easier to sand .
[quote=”DailyDrivenMini” post=26518]I will give it 24 hours. I will make you proud; just wait till tomorrow late night.
Thank you again for all the help!
-Michael[/quote]
Take a piece of 800 and knock the shiny off the run, this will make it easier for the solvent to escape and help the run cure through a bit better. If you don’t, you run (LOL) the risk of tearing the run off with the razor until you get some practice.
Time to hear the evaluation from the judges.
I also painted the bumper which was laying flat and it worked out great.
I had the hood hung on hand truck and I painted it vertically and that added to the challenge for me.
I got plenty of practice getting rid of the runs. I think I am pretty fast at it now with using blade.
Now I noticed that under the runs, I think I trapped some air or moisture that it looks like I got microporosities under the run that now that I got rid of the runs.
I got rid of the all the runs and wet sanded every thing down to 1000 grit.
I don’t feel the bumps on my hand but I do see it. Is this what you call ghosting?? Or is there such a thing? What can I do to fix this? Would another coat of clear fix this?
In terms of the color match I think I got lucky. The color matches pretty well and there are very limited areas that the panels adjoin and this helped tremendously.
I learned a lot doing this and that it is much easier to paint when things are laying flat that the paint levels much better without much run.
At any rate, please be gentle with comments but do not hold back so that I can learn. Just remember we all started somewhere. 🙂 Thanks as usual!
Hate to say it, but you’re going to have to repaint that panel, including basecoat. Fresh clear won’t mask the distortion under the existing clear. If it’s just that area that’s got the discoloration, you can blend in the new base to cover that area only (save you rebasing the entire hood).
I would also re-orient the panel so that the hood is flat as well when you paint it.
That was the feeling that I was getting. LOL
Some wasted paint but I learned something. Other than excessive paint, why did that happen? I did not have any run on the base coat.
I do have 2 moisture filters in the line, may be that was not enough? Too thick of paint trapping air?
As you can see the hood is on the car now.
I got a few other panels to paint, I will re-paint when I am painting that.
I still want to learn why it happened though.
Thanks.
[quote=”DailyDrivenMini” post=26573]That was the feeling that I was getting. LOL
Some wasted paint but I learned something. Other than excessive paint, why did that happen? I did not have any run on the base coat.
I do have 2 moisture filters in the line, may be that was not enough? Too thick of paint trapping air?
As you can see the hood is on the car now.
I got a few other panels to paint, I will re-paint when I am painting that.
I still want to learn why it happened though.
Thanks.[/quote]
Your hood has quite a bit of orange peel (texture) an the large sag/run. When the paint is really thick (like in the run) the top layer can dry quicker (skin over) before the inner parts can flash off solvent and dry. This traps the solvent in there. The bubbles you see are from that, and called solvent pop.
Your hood also needs to be sanded a bit more before painting. There are still some shiny areas and some texture left in it.
As mentioned, paint it in a flat position (as it would be on the car). Your basecoat doesn’t need to be applied as heavy/wet as the clear. If you can apply the clear in thin wet coats, with even overlap (when passing with the paint gun) you will get better results. Also, it is a good idea to have some masking paper, or anything you can spray on to setup your gun before you start spraying. This way you can see how the product is spraying & laying down before you move onto your panel.
Keep it up, you will learn from your mistakes are get better.
Ben,
1. Can I thin the base further down than 1:1?
2. Can I thin the clear at all?
3. Thinned base or clear, is the flash time affected at all?
4. Is the flash time a minimum time or is it more like a window of time for the next coat? IE Flash time of 5min, you wait 5 min for the next coat, as long as you wait 5 min or more you are ok. Or 5min to an hour, a day?
Thanks again.
Will be going at it again this evening.
Base can be thinned more, but really shouldn’t need too much. If you thin it too much the colour becomes too transparent and the viscosity changes too much. If you do thin it you must apply it in lighter coats or you will run it
The clear can be thinned more. This isn’t all that uncommon with some clears. As a general rule though, you do not want to thin it more than 10% beyond what is called for.
Thinning a product allows you apply it in thinner coats. Thinner coats tend to dry faster, however I wouldn’t change the flash time solely based on this.
Flash time is minimum. Tech sheets usually have a max recoat time. That is basically the maximum flash time. If you go beyond this, in most cases, you will need to sand/scuff what you sprayed and reapply. Typically I go by the flash time since I am spraying in a heated booth with good airflow. In cooler temperatures and/or less air flow you NEED to increase the flash time. Judgement/experience is what generally dictates how long to allow something to flash.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.