Painting primed panel.

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  • Scott
    June 21, 2012 at 12:12 am #37351

    Dont forget the more you thin your base the coverage will suffer and the more you thin your clear the greater the chance of runs.

    Michael
    June 21, 2012 at 2:23 am #37352

    The reason I asked about thinning the clear was because it was going to too thick for me thus the run. Maybe I need to move my gun faster? Further back?

    Thanks yall for all the help thus far.

    Ben Hart
    June 21, 2012 at 3:12 am #37353

    [quote=”DailyDrivenMini” post=26584]The reason I asked about thinning the clear was because it was going to too thick for me thus the run. Maybe I need to move my gun faster? Further back?

    Thanks yall for all the help thus far.[/quote]

    Well, looking at the hood I would say you need to readjust your gun. What clear are you using? What gun and how much air pressure? What size fluid tip in the gun?

    Scott
    June 21, 2012 at 3:22 am #37354

    Another suggestion would be to obtain a TDS (technical data sheet) for the products you are using and follow it exactly, you should be able to find a TDS by doing an Online search. Adjust your gun and do a test panel until you get your desired results than proceed.

    Michael
    June 21, 2012 at 7:23 am #37372

    So as soon as I got home, I scuff this sucker down.

    Then I just finished it a few minutes ago.

    The bumper was painted a few days back with the hood.

    In conclusion, I think I paint better flat.

    The tailgate was also painted.

    Let’s see how it looks tomorrow morning!

    Attachments:
    Ben Hart
    June 21, 2012 at 7:32 am #37377

    Hard to see well from the pictures, but all in all it doesn’t look too bad.

    In general, it is best to paint parts in a position similar to how they would sit on the vehicle.

    Michael
    June 21, 2012 at 4:19 pm #37387

    I do have some orange peel here and there. But I am sure after wet sanding it will look ok.

    I know you guys are shaking heads.

    The runs seemed to have disappeared. Knock on wood.

    I found that the clear shrinks quite a bit as it sets. I left some in the mixing cup and the ring that filled the very bottom of the cup with the very center of the cup protruding up, that set clear coat of the ring is sticking up no longer fitting that area.

    Anyways, here are couple shots.

    Will be wet-sanding tonight.

    Thank you, Ben for all the coaching!

    Attachments:
    Scott
    June 21, 2012 at 7:26 pm #37389

    Good job. A good cut and buff will make that job look nice. Post some pics when your finished.

    Michael
    June 23, 2012 at 12:16 am #37400

    Will be doing some wet sanding on the clear this weekend, 1500 then 2000?

    Is P1500 grit same as 1500 grit?

    Michael
    June 23, 2012 at 12:24 am #37401

    I found a corner where I didn’t spray the clear wet on the tailgate. Got some texture. Darn it.

    I suppose I sand the whole panel down then re-clear? Which grit? Would gray pad be ok?

    Thanks.

    Scott
    June 23, 2012 at 12:28 am #37402

    in your situation i would start the cutting with 1200 grit step up to 1500 grit than 2000 and than 3000. Use a rotary buffer with a compound than finish with a glaze to remove the swirls from the compound and call it done. This process will be very time comsuming but the results will be great. Good luck

    Yes p1500 is the same as 1500

    Scott
    June 23, 2012 at 12:29 am #37403

    Yes sand the complete panel and re clear. A grey scratch pad is fine.

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