Panel Bond
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I am just wondering what other shops out there use. Every place I’ve been to always seems to use 3M 08115. We use it at our shop and maybe it’s just the fact it’s proven itself time and time again that people don’t want to switch given the job of the adhesive. What else have you guys used or know of?
mig :whistle:
we use the 3m and another type but i carnt for the life of me remember what its called ill look in my paint store and let you know its cheap and cheerfull stuff lol
We also prefer 3m because it gets hard enough to core wheel sqeeze out to take paint-seam sealer, also works best when weld bonding is needed. The fusor brand panel bond is kinda gummy and not paintable, too much clean up time. The Wurth i tried a sample of was ok i guess.
heres the stuff i use if we run out of 3m its not bad stuff
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m167/wheelieman/DSC00346.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m167/wheelieman/DSC00347.jpg[/IMG]
Ashland Chemical’s Pliogrip by Valvoline Panel 90 part #8051. If you put 8051, 3M 8115 and Crest’s Panel Bonder 3500 all side by side with no labels on ’em and tried them i doubt you could tell them apart very easily. They all look alike, brush out easily with an acid brush, and have the same working times. The Pliogrip is very popular in my neck of the woods. Enough less $$ than 3M to be significant. You couldn’t get me to go back to anyone else’s plastic repair system after using the Pliogrip stuff either.
were all about the LORD Fusor over here :rock
If Chuck Norris were a glue he’d be 3M 8115 Panel Bond.
I have used a few kinds. Started with Dura-mix which I’m pretty sure 3m bought and killed, but it was good. I used Lord fusor. I used Pro Form as well which I really don’t like. I now use 3m for everything, 1 product does it all.
We were using fast panel bond as seam sealer at the last shop I was at. Hard to match some factory thick sealer and get it to go hard.Why dont you like the Pro-Form panel bond?
The black proform panelbond is repackaged 3m 8115 and the green pliogrip is made by ashland chemicals,top notch products.
The reason i was asking is because i love the stuff
I used the green Pro form at the last shop I was at. I had too many adhesion issues with it on plastic repairs. I tried adhesion promoters as well. I also found if you heated it after it was cured it got soft again. Same trying to sand it. We also had some patch failures with it. seperated out in the heat. I didn’t use it for patching but other guys did at the shop. you can really cook the 3m stuff with no issues. I use the heat lamps on it with no issues. I don’t use adhesion promoter with the 3m and it sticks. I’ll bake the stuff to speed up the drying. I can grind it and it stays hard and does not peel off the plastic.
Maybe the Pro Form is better now, its been 6 years at least since I used it.
I only use panel bond to do wheel lips on 1/4 replacement and door skins with metal, the rest is fiberglass and plastic repairs. I doubt I ever had a metal repair failure that I knew of because its also welded so I judge the material with plastics.
[quote=”Glen440″ post=25332]I used the green Pro form at the last shop I was at. I had too many adhesion issues with it on plastic repairs. I tried adhesion promoters as well. I also found if you heated it after it was cured it got soft again. Same trying to sand it. We also had some patch failures with it. seperated out in the heat. I didn’t use it for patching but other guys did at the shop. you can really cook the 3m stuff with no issues. I use the heat lamps on it with no issues. I don’t use adhesion promoter with the 3m and it sticks. I’ll bake the stuff to speed up the drying. I can grind it and it stays hard and does not peel off the plastic.
Maybe the Pro Form is better now, its been 6 years at least since I used it.
I only use panel bond to do wheel lips on 1/4 replacement and door skins with metal, the rest is fiberglass and plastic repairs. I doubt I ever had a metal repair failure that I knew of because its also welded so I judge the material with plastics.[/quote]
I dont use it on plastic, i was referring to metal
[quote=”Glen440″ post=25332]I used the green Pro form at the last shop I was at. I had too many adhesion issues with it on plastic repairs. I tried adhesion promoters as well. I also found if you heated it after it was cured it got soft again. Same trying to sand it. We also had some patch failures with it. seperated out in the heat. I didn’t use it for patching but other guys did at the shop. you can really cook the 3m stuff with no issues. I use the heat lamps on it with no issues. I don’t use adhesion promoter with the 3m and it sticks. I’ll bake the stuff to speed up the drying. I can grind it and it stays hard and does not peel off the plastic.
Maybe the Pro Form is better now, its been 6 years at least since I used it.
I only use panel bond to do wheel lips on 1/4 replacement and door skins with metal, the rest is fiberglass and plastic repairs. I doubt I ever had a metal repair failure that I knew of because its also welded so I judge the material with plastics.[/quote]
So you were using structural adhesives for plastic repair :blink:
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