paper or plastic?

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  • August 5, 2010 at 4:26 am #23518

    i’ve been watching some of the video’s, and was wondering what you guys do for overspray protection.

    we use paper around the adjacent panels, and then plastic over the rest of the car. in the video’s, i see that they are just using plastic right up to the area’s to be painted.

    i would be afraid that the paint would fly off the plastic and into the paint, has happen in the past, i got to know what brand of plastic they’re useing in the videos. i would love to cut down on cost.

    the brand of plastic i use is carbouriam. supposedly you can paint on it. but never tried.

    thanks lild

    August 5, 2010 at 4:52 am #23520

    You can paint onto the carbo. Just make sure you spray onto the side that says “paint this side” or “this side up”.

    Done it for years and never had it blow off. Just make sure it’s tight. If it is loose and flapping all over the place you will get more dirt.

    August 5, 2010 at 5:34 am #23523

    when plastic first came out it wasnt treated and wasnt made to tape right up to the critical edge. most plastics now a days are fine. they have a treated side. as ryan said you have to have the side that says this side out, or paint this side facing up. i back tape everything and put plastic right up to the edge. i never had anything blow off. I hardly ever even have to denib jobs. USC shark skin, 3M, Norton (carbo is norton) are all good brands. I have used all three with the same results
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-225S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-226S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-227S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-229S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-215S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-251S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-352S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-358S.jpg[/IMG]

    August 5, 2010 at 5:36 am #23524

    The last couple shops I have been at aren’t still in the stone ages like the rest of you :silly: , so we use paper around the areas spraying and spray mask the rest of the vehicle. Works much better than paper or plastic.

    However, I have done it every way imaginable (to me). I like spraying up to the plastic since it is quick and easy to mask, inexpensive and great when doing several random areas (ie: front left fender and rt rear quarter). But if needing to do more than just base/clear (like when you need to seal and two-tone) I don’t like this as it allows the chance for the product to dry and lose adhesion on the plastic and get crap in the paint. Also, I tend to clear pretty heavy so I like having at least a few inches of paper around the area I am painting to ensure that the clear wont run from the masking product onto the panel, and that has happened to me more than once :cens

    I have used the 3M and Norton plastic, both are poly coated/paintable (on the 1 side) and work well.

    August 5, 2010 at 5:40 am #23525

    try spray mask. never realy liked it

    August 5, 2010 at 5:50 am #23526

    Spray mask. Alcohol based, washes off easy protects extremely well. You should have a good wash bay, however.

    [img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs139.ash2/40284_471353395032_723495032_6711121_4771371_n.jpg[/img]

    August 5, 2010 at 6:06 am #23527

    Plastic is the way to go. And paper for jams.

    August 5, 2010 at 7:15 am #23531

    [b]ding wrote:[/b]
    [quote]when plastic first came out it wasnt treated and wasnt made to tape right up to the critical edge. most plastics now a days are fine. they have a treated side. as ryan said you have to have the side that says this side out, or paint this side facing up. i back tape everything and put plastic right up to the edge. i never had anything blow off. I hardly ever even have to denib jobs. USC shark skin, 3M, Norton (carbo is norton) are all good brands. I have used all three with the same results
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-225S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-226S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-227S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-229S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-215S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-251S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-352S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-358S.jpg[/IMG][/quote]we back tape everthing, spnonge tape the jambs if needed, i will have to give it a try. i do need to seal everything now. so would i have to worry about sealer poping off.

    and it seems like it’s been stone ages since useing 3m’s slime as we called it. works well, but didn’t like it. it’s too expensive, hate the fact that you need to wipe the painted areas off with water, mainly becuase i was unassure that i got it all off, and for some reason after bakeing, if you let it sat out in the sun for a day it was a pita to get off. the other spray mask stuff i really didn’t like it smelled and looked like chick fat.

    August 5, 2010 at 8:18 am #23532

    [b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Plastic is the way to go. And paper for jams.[/quote]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-237S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-238S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-239S.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-240S.jpg[/IMG]

    August 5, 2010 at 3:46 pm #23533

    I havent sealed a new part on the car in I cant remember how long. :silly:
    No reason you cant seal the entire part when you jamb them. Then all you have to do is scuff and shoot.

    August 5, 2010 at 3:52 pm #23534

    [b]ding wrote:[/b]
    [quote]I havent sealed a new part on the car in I cant remember how long. :silly:
    No reason you cant seal the entire part when you jamb them. Then all you have to do is scuff and shoot.[/quote]

    much agree 😉 ,

    i think it is a lot of extra work to seal on the vehicle, especially when you are jamming the parts anyway.

    August 5, 2010 at 7:33 pm #23537

    im suprized no one mentioned my favorite bedsheets :rofl
    [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s151/jackcarlson1965/DSCN2299.jpg[/IMG]

    August 5, 2010 at 8:18 pm #23539

    What’s wrong with newspaper?

    [IMG]http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb126/dagges/DSC02373.jpg[/IMG]

    August 5, 2010 at 11:13 pm #23540

    Plastic wherever possible here.

    We tend to do as much masking as possible outside the booth, so some areas get paper, b t plastic just seems so much easier, cleaner, and quicker to me. Plus you can stretch it nice and tight so it doesn’t flap dust around, something you can’t do with paper.

    August 6, 2010 at 3:01 am #23552

    well i spray 4 cars 2day useing the plastic. i wish i knew i cuould of done this in the past. after outlineing and backtapeing, it was much easier to cut out and tape down, and it seemed like it took less time to tape. and less time in the booth. i’ve also notice that the jobs r much cleaner.
    now i can save some coin. most importantly, after bakeing, no paint poped off the plastic, like it has in the past.

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