Paper or Plastic
- This topic has 12 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 8 months ago by .
- Posts
I started this topic to try to help anyone who is having trouble getting clean paint jobs. Call me old school, but I’ve proven to myself that I can get a cleaner paint job with masking paper as a buffer between the panel to be refinished and my masking plastic. I know the new trend is to plastic right up to the panel because the new masking plastics are designed to “catch” paint. I tried that method for a while to try to cut down on masking materials. That plastic catches some paint yeah, but I think the way that it catches it also attracts dirt. So with a buffer zone of at least 12 inches of masking paper, in the exact same booth conditions, I get beautifully clean paint jobs damn near everytime. There are numerous other factors that I could go on about that I do that I think contribute to clean paint jobs, but this plays a big part. I use anti-static wipe lastly, on the panel and the paper, then I tack the panel and the paper. Anyone have any input? I’d like to hear what you guys think. Or maybe questions that everybody can discuss to help people get cleaner paint jobs. Because eliminating wet sanding and buffing from the repair process means quicker turn around times, which means higher productivity, which means more $$$$$$$$ :stoned
I find if i wear a clean suit,water the floor(cross draft), have the gun, air supply and filters clean ,use waterborne cleaner for last wipe, mask to seal and tack everything well has worked very good for me. I dont have a dust issue.
I have done it both ways and honestly can’t tell a difference,I can get a consistent clean job either way :stoned
I use plastic. Don’t have any issues with getting clean jobs. Are you prepping or back taping different ways when you use plastic vs paper
No, I could get clean jobs with plastic but not consistently. I’m thinking maybe it was the brand of plastic I was using. Keystone has never really impressed me with any of their products. What brand do you guys use?
In the past I used to use paper only – much too slow.
Then I switched to paper around the repair area and plastic elsewhere. Significantly faster and much less chance of overspray creeping under a taped join that’s lifted. Still had a little dust, but not much. Most didn’t need buffing, just a nib or three. The one thing that I had to watch for was extending the paint on to the paper – very easy to overwet it and have it stick to the surface. Used a 75mm paper strip under the edge to protect it but that’s more work and more time.
Recently I’ve been using straight plastic up to a taped line, usually two lines of 50mm tape, overlapped about 10mm. So, the plastic actually starts about 60mm from the panel edge. It’s much more expensive but:
a. The job is definitely cleaner. I think because the corona treated plastic tends to hold the dust; and,
b. The whole process is way faster. I’d estimate I’m saving 15-20 minutes on an average job and that really adds up with savings in time outweighing the extra cost of materials.As smooth said, clean suit, wet floor (my booth is end draught) and everything else clean. Apart from one little run, every job this last week has been good to go straight off the gun. Gotta love that. :dnc
I’ve never found much of a difference between the two as long as they are used correctly. Keep either of them neat and tidy and you should find no difference. The other things mentioned above will be much more important 🙂
Loose plastic that flaps around when you spray near it will just kick up any dust that’s around, and dust can lurk in badly creased / folded paper, ready to jump out when you least expect it. I don’t know if anyone else does this, but just before painting I’ll blow & tack the area to be painted and the surrounding masking as far as I can reach with a demoted, half used tack rag, before going over the panels again with a fresher one.
i got hooked on plastic sheeting a while ago and pretty much use it for a collision job or overall repaint. in the end its faster and less space in the dumpster. it takes me less tape and it gives me cleaner work. i prefer the sherwin shield brand or 3m plastic sheeting over the norton or usc shark skin.
I prefer plastic, quicker, less tape. I have used Keystone, 3M and another brand, don’t remember which, but find 3M best of 3 :hunt
I currently use Norton plastic. Ive used 3M and the Sherwin Williams brand. Personally, I haven’t noticed a difference other than a little variation in cost. As long as it is treated plastic and economically priced, I am happy.
I usually only use paper where necessary. I don’t go through very much. I use the white Norton paint check. It is great to work with, and we manage to get it for close to the same cost as the blue Bonmask paper.
For those of you who haven’t had great results, or mixed results, have you made sure you always have the plastic on the right side? My plastic has a Paint this side note on in, and if you have the plastic upside down the paint will fly right off it.
Been Using Norton plastic for a long time, (16′ for trucks and 12′ for cars) mainly because of price and availability, haven’t tried any other to compare.
Norton plastic works awesome,and you get more on the roll than carbo for the same money 😉
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.