Polyester primer
- This topic has 8 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 8 months ago by .
- Posts
Hello. I am looking for advice on Polyester primers. working on 69 Firebird, I have sprayed a polyester primer down and long blocked it. followed that with a 2K primer. i am wet sanding w/400 and have burn through in a couple of spots to the polyester primer. i was able to work out issue in substrait with out hitting regular plastic or metal.
can I use a 2 part sealer on top of the burn throughs and go right to paint or do I need to cover again with a 2k primer and block the area again advoiding a burn through. This is 1st time use of Polyester Primer for me. I think it was called evercoat SLICK SAND? Covered with nason 2k primer.
All product used were 2 part materials.
Ty for any advice. ken from Iowai’ve had this happen to me in the past and what seems to have worked for me is to dust a light coat of sealer on the sanded thru spots (whether to original paint, primer, surfacer, etc) and then come back with a full coat of sealer after you’ve let it set for a minute or two. since it’s catalyzed i can’t see it wrinkling or lifting or ringing up.
I would think if the areas are small enough, sealer would be ok, however…
When I was using PPG, the Rep suggested to always spray 2k primer over the poly and never just seal it. He said it would void their warranty.
Personally I would probably be inclined to spray more primer and reblock, especially if you are doing this as more of a high end job. Better safe than sorry. Afterall, the Nason primer and slick sand both sand at different rates, so any burn through is a chance of having the panel less straight than you may have wanted.
By the time I was done the area was size of dinner plate . What do you think of just spot priming the areas with 2K and not do whole panel. I would think that to be ok. Then come back w/400wet and call it good { non-metalic job). And yes is a high end job. I have years of experience but not with the slick sand product…this is 1st use. Really I was nervous to use anything i’m not used to. You know how us body men are stuck in the processes we are used to. :] ty . Ken
Spot priming should be ok so long as you know you have enough build around there that you won’t burn through elsewhere later.
I know some guys that will only re-prime the entire panel on show cars, just to be safe. Whichever way you can make it work best…
I’ve never had any issues with topcoats on slick sand. I use a LOT of slicksand on little stuff, but most of it is vinyl-wrapped. The trouble is it always seems to have pinholes, so if I’m painting over it I usually shoot 2k just to be safe.
I don’t blend much, so I can’t speak to this. I’m lousy at it any way :deadhorse
also, the nature of anything polyester is it WILL shrink a couple percent. Gotta remember that. Don’t shoot poly on a quick job.
I think it as much as 20% with acetone and it sprays real nice. Learned that trick a while back, and am loving it.
[quote=”krjrcustom1″ post=25693] Then come back w/400wet and call it good { non-metalic job). And yes is a high end job. . Ken[/quote]
Water on poly is never good. Best bet would be to get a short wave lamp on it for 30-45 minutes.
“high end job” that statement right there should dictate what you do.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=25907][quote=”krjrcustom1″ post=25693] Then come back w/400wet and call it good { non-metalic job). And yes is a high end job. . Ken[/quote]
Water on poly is never good. Best bet would be to get a short wave lamp on it for 30-45 minutes.
“high end job” that statement right there should dictate what you do.[/quote]
x2 Heed this advice. You wouldn’t wetsand metal glaze, poly is the same style of product.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.