Polyurethane vs Acrylic Urethane
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I am just curious what other people think about the two terms. It’s seems to vary based on who you ask, some say it’s just the lingo & others say the products are different. I was recently speaking with a very successful paint chemist whom tells me the only difference is the word. He went on to tell me that a true polyurethane would really refer to a 1k product similar to what you’d find on a home depot shelf where the isocynate has already been reacted.
But at any rate I’ve also seen around the net many claim a polyurethane clear coat has different properties such as hardness or difference in UV protection..etc. The first company that comes to mind labeling as a polyurethane is SPI. I like to support the smaller companies but reality makes me wonder why the big companies don’t seem to sell it like that. Don’t get me wrong either, I’ve heard great things about SPI but am just curious about the lingo and if there is really anything different about the product. What do you guys think?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane
Not the same. But what do i know? 🙂
http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/general-remodeling/5504-poly-vs-acrylic-urethane.html
Is it the same?
http://www.polyprod.com/faqs.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/enamel-vs-urethane-vs-polyurethane-43949.html
Best: http://www.aragonelastomers.com/_OLD/faq.htm
Is there any way to speed up the process of expungement of my Maryland record?
It’s the same! I should be working… OK, i’m taking a break and googling.
Man been reading for an hour or so and now am more confused than when I started..
So it is different, but then again its the same??
I dunno, I do agree the word poly is used very loosely in our industry for sure, as I have seen enamel with a plasticizer added and then all of a sudden it went from a generic cheap regualr old enamel to now a “polyurethane” single stage.. and believe me it was not like any other polyurethane single stage I had ever used.. It was awful.. just awful.
I have also seen what we consider the “normal” acrylic urethanes again with a plasticizer added and now its a poly as well??.. those seem to spray and do fine..
From the clears I have used that were labeled poly , the spi which the owner ( my good friend Barry Kives ) does call a true polurethane stays softer and surface scratches with the wipe of a micro fiber cloth, however you can buff it 2 years from now and it still buffs like butter.. the scratch issue is gone then though..
PPG sell its 2002 concept clear which is also touted as a poly and I personally used to love spraying and buffing that clear many many years ago..
I dont know what all this means, but I can tell you this.. Jim Clark (another good friend of mine ) and I have spent many hours talking about clears and their differences etc.. We both agree that more or less they are just plastic,, and all pretty much good..
I did a test 4 summers ago.. I bought a gallon of some super cheap clear.. It was Morton brand, super cheap.. I mean 50 bucks for a gallon kit.. Mixed 4:1 I sprayed a piece of plastic that goes across the front of my chrome bumper on my old Expedition just to see how it would hold up..
It sanded like concrete the very next day.. and buffed like concrete too, but it has never lost its gloss, faded or chipped or peeled..Like I said it was a test of sorts for my own self.. I wondered if a dirt cheap bottom of the barrel clear would hold up outside 24/7 in the elements.. Plus I wash my truck once a year :lol1 .. I can tell you it surprised the hell out of me and like i said above, it looks like the day I shot it..
So my point is this..that particular clear is much different in its resin amount *( it was like tap water consistency) how it sanded and also how it buffed than the spi I use or even the Gentec I use , it has stood up to the elements, salt, acid rain etc and never failed.. Sooooo, I dont think all the hoopla matters as much as I once did a few years ago..
Most of us are doing collision repairs, and they will last as long as the factory thin cheap paint, and if it were a show car, you could put anything on it and it should last forever since they stay inside garages are never driven in bad weather etc etc etc..
I know not everyone in the industry feels that way and I understand why.. I have heard horror stories from different peopke over the years of how this clear did this or this one did that etc.. How they failed yada yada yada, but personally have never had any issue..
I think as long as you buy from a reputable company chances are you will fair just fine..
Ok Im done :pcorn:
hey would ya use that morton on a white or silver car where color match was an issue???
:whistle:There are cars out there with the cheapest clear on them that have held up
better than some cars with the most expensive clear.
Is it the clear? probably not, prep and application play a bigger role.
I have seen failures in the best of products, and some remarkable durability
in the cheapest ones. I guess we never know for sure how to pick.
Even when we find one we like, chances are it won’t stay the same.
Most every mfg will lessen the quality over time and then come out
with a new and improved one. It’s the games they play.
It’s a sure bet that any given clear is sold under multiple names, and prices.I agree that prep and application is likely the biggest factor in durability.
Maybe with the high-end clears, after the cut n’ buff, there wasn’t
enough build for protection. And cheaper clears might last longer
because a cut n’ buff isn’t done at all, or very little. Too many factors…[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]hey would ya use that morton on a white or silver car where color match was an issue???
:whistle:[/quote]That particular clear… YES I would have used on any collision repair regardless of color as it is water clear and water thin 😛 😛
Now i have seen some cheap clears I would never put on a silver or white because of the amber cast they have.. I remember SW used to have some pretty “yellowed” clears back in the day and they really messed with a silver car.. But that was a long time ago, and any clear I use now is pretty much “clear”
i got to agree with jc clark its all about the prep im not a fan of just cutting with compound for clear coats in my opinion its not enough i use both pu and acrylic and there isn’t much difference apart from drying time but then that varies from manufactures i do find that p.u are a little tougher but then i can only speak from the products i have used like lechler chrodex ect if im looking for longevity ie alloy wheels then i use p.u anti scratch by lechler its really tough and looks brill years down the line
ya ive used that morton b4 an it was the most yellow of any clear ive ever seen reminded me of honey the cast was so amber i dont think i would try an use it on a white care but will say it did seem ta hold up nice on the dark green nissan i did yrs ago 😉
The amber cast is actually there for UV protection in low end clears. Gues it really does work!
I had lots of issues too as it’s too noticable. But all my clears are clear now…Now Im gonna have to go out in the garage and pour some of that stuff out and see how amber cast it is.. I thought it was clear like the my clears that I do use.. hmmmm I will look this weekend when I actually have a minute to breathe..
I never sprayed that clear on any vehicle other than that plastic piece on my truck.. I use it around the house here for stuff I clear, like my rocking chairs on my front porch :blush: 😛
i think ya should be able ta tell just looking in the can if its the same stuff i used :lol1
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