PPG Envirobase
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Hey everyone, I was just informed at work the other day that we are going to be switching to Envirobase at the end of next month. Who out there is using Envirobase and what has been you experience with it. Im wanting to get a head start on this so when were ready I’ll already have some knowledge on it.
August 17, 2010 at 6:40 am #23975Not using it myself, but was given the tour by a friend who is. Covers good, lays down great and color match is excellent. He was on a “convert with confidence ” program and they came in to make sure they had all of the right equipment and sent everyone to school as well. When they got back the shop was equipped.
Good luck
Brad
We use Envirobase.
As Brad said, it has good coverage, sprays well and the colour match is good (much better than DuPont). If you have some experience painting and some knowledge of waterborne you will do fine. Everyone I know that uses waterborne wouldn’t go back to solvent.
What are you using now Nitro?
August 17, 2010 at 7:29 am #23977agree, it is good on all levels and far better than solvent base. however in my experince with it, how ever they tell you to sray it, do it that way, there isn’t any short cuts yet.
also invest in a sun gun if you don’t have one already. i also haven’t had any luck with it covering prime well, so sealing everthing is just about a must.
yellow matchs are excellent, and solid reds cover in 2-3 coats. however red mets. are tricky.were using Sikkens Auto Base Plus right now. We had a demo last winter on Envirobase I liked it and thought it was easy to spray, but since it was a demo and we have four painters we each only got to paint a handful of cars. The sealer is a great piece of advice….. I like to seal anyways because I’ve found out that you have less issues with blocking scratches showing up that way. What has your experience been with the blender they have out? Can you take it to the end of the panel? Will it change the color of your blend panel? Does anyone use the One Visit Clear? EC 700 or something like that? Were starting to get bits and pieces on what we are going to have not sure what undercoat system we are going with yet…. probably deltron if I had to guess.
August 20, 2010 at 5:12 am #24055I have tried the EC700 and I’m not a fan of it. To be honest I still like their 2021 clear.
If you are limited to low voc clears I am not real familiar with what PPG has to offer.
I use Sikkens Autowave and if you have any say so in it you might want to give it a look. Their Superior 250 clear is one of the nicest clears I have ever sprayed.
You can’t go wrong with PPG’s 2021 or 2042 clears. Our shop owner looked into Autowave because he has been with Sikkens for over 20 years. The only downfall to going with Autowave is our local jobber for Sikkens is about to close the doors so he can retire and the nearest jobber is about 50 miles away and with the volume we do, if we run out of a toner, ect we need it right now so I think that had a major effect on his decision, and we wern’t getting much support from our jobber anyways. Our jobber who is going to be supplying us with Envirobase is at our shop more than our paint supplier and all he was doing before the change was supplying us with sandpaper and shop supplies way more support which is a plus!!
August 20, 2010 at 6:11 am #24058were useing 2021,2002,dc3000,dc4000 clears at my shop depending on the job. however i wouldn’t use 2042, we stop using it because of clear darkening, as a matter of fact our ppg rep. told us to stop useing it.
i’m really starting to get the hang of the envirobase, i’ve found that the new sealer for the envior is alot better than the old stuff. but you will need to seal just about every thing. for some rason enviro takes a few more coats to cover over primer.
i also know that they will tell you to sand everything with 600-1000 grit, but i know you can paint over 400 p-grade grit, as long as you use a da. hand sanding, there is no way.
and if they give you those stupid blowers tell them no thanks. those things seem to put more trash into the paint, then help. i’ve found if your filters are clean and air flow is good, it will dry on it’s own in 5 mins.. unless your owner is willing to put some coin up for corner fans.
one small tip. make sure it is dry before tacking it off, it will pull the fibers out of the blue tack rags they want you to use, and make the clear look trashy. also keep the guns clean as possible, when they say it will stick to anything, they are not lieing. my shoes look 2 yrs old, i got them 6 mounths ago, and my gun looks like it’s 10 yrs. old.
thanks for the input lild. We have the Garmat fans on the ceiling of the booths right now. We had them installed a few months ago and we have been using them for our solvent and they do move a lot of air so I will have to do a little experimenting with everything when we get switched over. On the part of keeping your gun clean is there a special cleaner you can use (other than the cleaner you would use to clean your gun out after painting) maybe as a cleaner to use once a week to really clean your gun out? After hearing everyone’s response on the sealer, I’m going to seal everything!!! The guys I work with won’t seal primer unless the HAVE to so we will get to see how it goes both ways. Can’t wait to keep everyone updated on the change!!!! One month and counting!!! P.S. just sent in my paper work for the PPG certification
August 21, 2010 at 7:48 pm #24125Couple tips for ya. Once or twice a week run your water gun through the solvent gun washer. Make sure it is dry inside. Once done blow air through it and flush with T494. I usually do it first thing in the morning about once a week. Also helps to pull the nozzle out once a week and clean it real quick.
As far as cleaning your gun after spraying I keep a Sata squirt bottle with a little bit of acetone and tap water in it. I keep it in the booth and after spraying I will take off the PPS or RPS cup and flush it in the booth with air running through it. That will clean 90% of it. I then run it through a water gun cleaner.
If your not gonna seal it will help to put a very light coat on first and blow dry with your gun. It gives your first coat something to grip to.
August 22, 2010 at 1:22 am #24137Great tips Ryan.
I run my base gun through the solvent wash after it’s weekly strip down. Really helps to get the last little bits out.
A first dust coat of base is something I’ve always done, and found it helps a lot. I hardly ever use a sealer.
But that squirty bottle tip is one I’m going to steal. Great idea, and it’ll keep the fluid in the gun washer cleaner for longer too.
August 22, 2010 at 2:16 am #24140Here is the bottle I use Andy.
scroll down to page 4
http://www.sata.com/uploads/tx_pxspecialcontent/46_RPS_us_02.pdfI use #127825 cleaning bottle. You can use a pump type bottle that holds cleaners but the acetone will eat the seals up kinda quick. If you use the pump type only add around 6-8 oz of acetone and the rest water and the seals will last longer. Any more acetone and the seals will go bad very quickly.
I also leave mine in the booth when it bakes. Seems hot water works better than anything.
The first dust coat is something I got from you Andy, works good! 😉
August 22, 2010 at 4:33 am #24146The Debeer thinner (WB reducer) we use comes in a very similar 1 litre plastic bottle with squirty cap, so I’ve got stacks of them lying around, but thanks for the link anyway 🙂
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