Primer Gun

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  • January 26, 2013 at 7:50 pm #40643

    I can lay primer down like glass with a nap roller from home depot if i thin it out enough. Not saying the sagola doesn’t shoot primer nice, but what other guns are you comparing it to. How does it shoot thick High solids low voc primers that arent full of solvents?

    January 26, 2013 at 11:03 pm #40652

    All this talk on primer guns got me thinking about some of the old primer guns I have and what we used at the shop for a couple of decades.The old sikkens guys will remember them as thats what was recomended with the old sikkens yellow 3+1(it would build like a poly surfacer :p ).The name of the company was called eminent made in holland, and they are tough as nails,4 of these guns were used everyday by 12 bodymen for over 20 years and they are just now wearing out.I really like the sata primer guns but have never used one,sadly the guys we have now would just wreck them,not like the old guys who would actually take care of them.I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0051_zps21495bba.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0052_zps249d8801.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0053_zps14967437.jpg[/IMG]

    January 27, 2013 at 12:13 am #40653

    I use Iwata w200 for primer

    January 27, 2013 at 2:22 am #40657

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=29625]I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl
    [/quote]

    I don’t know about you, but I find a bit of texture on a high build primer makes it easier to sand anyway. Knocking the hard top surface off is much easier than if it’s totally flat.

    January 27, 2013 at 3:12 am #40658

    [quote=”Andy T” post=29630][quote=”Jayson M” post=29625]I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl
    [/quote]

    I don’t know about you, but I find a bit of texture on a high build primer makes it easier to sand anyway. Knocking the hard top surface off is much easier than if it’s totally flat.[/quote]

    Not only that, but if you are putting your primer on flat like clear, you are probably hosing it on too wet… And unless you increase your flash time a lot, then you will likely trap solvents. Primer doesn’t cure very well (nor sand well) like that.

    January 27, 2013 at 4:52 am #40662

    So far what i have found is the flatter the primer, the less time I spend sanding. Especially final prime. And I couldnt tell you how well it sprays everything. I have only had it for a couple weeks. I have sprayed Sherwin Williams 4:1 epoxy, their 4:1 high build, Evercoat 4:1 feather fill, Shop line 4:1, and PPG DPS 3055 4:1:1 (reduced)primers. All laid down really nice. We got some K38 that is getting sprayed tomorrow. Only other gun I have used with a name you would even recognise is a Finishline. The rest I have had were some no name gun.

    They hired a guy at work the other day that everyone in town says is the best in the state. Has 30+ years experience. He is going to stop in tomorrow and spray with it to see what he thinks. I have to go in to spray some Slick Sand (not with the Sagola obviously) and he is going to Spray the doors. Really id rather have him try the clear gun, because like you have all said, primer gets sanded anyway, so it really isnt THAT important. I am, however, still very impressed with it. And I damn well better be, paid $220 for it and for me thats a pricey primer gun.

    January 27, 2013 at 4:55 am #40663

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=29625]I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl [/quote]

    For show cars, you sand clear too, does that mean we shouldnt care how it lays on? :silly:

    January 27, 2013 at 2:04 pm #40677

    Does nobody use the Debilbiss PRi? A friend swiped me one while his shop was clearing out (his boss takes a turn now and again), I’m still to see it but expected good things.

    January 27, 2013 at 4:43 pm #40681

    I have a PRi 1.6 that I use for the heavy stuff. I’m happy with it 🙂

    January 27, 2013 at 7:53 pm #40685

    1.6 for heavy stuff? That seems a little small for heavy stuff?

    January 27, 2013 at 8:14 pm #40687

    [quote=”gtome” post=29636][quote=”Jayson M” post=29625]I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl [/quote]

    For show cars, you sand clear too, does that mean we shouldnt care how it lays on? :silly:[/quote]
    That is an apples and oranges comparison,and as long as its a nice even wet coat of primer thats all that matters.

    January 27, 2013 at 8:22 pm #40688

    The important part for primer is for it to be sprayed wet enough to fall into the scratches but not too wet to where you are flooding it on and not too dry where you are bridging the scratches. Flash times are very improtant also and vary with every primer and application. Laying it “like glass” doesn’t offer any advantage…..and many of the high viscosity primers are going to have a normal peel to them because of the amount of product you are applying.

    January 27, 2013 at 8:38 pm #40690

    [quote=”gtome” post=29658]1.6 for heavy stuff? That seems a little small for heavy stuff?[/quote]

    I suppose it depends on what we mean by heavy stuff. I should have been more clear.

    The Debeer 2K high build I was using for the past few years recommended 1.3 – 1.8. I found 1.6 to be just right for general priming. It also worked well with their unreduced epoxy. For really heavy stuff like poly then I’d definitely go bigger, like a 2.0, although I used to manage well enough with an Iwata W400 with a 1.8. For sealer (non-sanding primer) or reduced epoxy I’d use the same W400 with either a 1.3 or 1.4.

    January 27, 2013 at 8:39 pm #40691

    I agree that some will have peel, most in fact. But to say laying primer flat has “no advantages” is silly. Especially when it comes to the final primer. If the coats are good and even, you’ve blocked it out well before the last prime, it is simply less work to sand a flatter finish. For instance, I sprayed some parts with a 4:1:1 reduced final primer. Sprayed very flat. And I sprayed some 4:1 primer, and it was pretty flat, but not like the 4:1:1. Obviously grabbing some 600 grit wet paper and going at it, I will finish the 4:1:1 much sooner simply because its less work to knock down. And to me, there is some value in less sanding.

    Now if I can learn to spray my clear a little better I will be in business!

    January 27, 2013 at 8:45 pm #40692

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=29660][quote=”gtome” post=29636][quote=”Jayson M” post=29625]I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl [/quote]

    For show cars, you sand clear too, does that mean we shouldnt care how it lays on? :silly:[/quote]
    That is an apples and oranges comparison,and as long as its a nice even wet coat of primer thats all that matters.[/quote]

    Its really not an apples to oranges comparison. Primer is “paint” and should be applied as well as anything else that goes on the car. Because in that way of thinking, all that really matters with clear is that its nice even coats….because it gets sanded as well (for the cars I do anyway).

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