Primer question(s)

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  • April 27, 2010 at 3:20 am #20908

    In my challenge to paint my trunk lid, a sanding and primer question has come up.

    I was going to use my new DA sander and remove the old rattle can primer, sand down to the bondo and sand/feather the surrounding area. What grade of paper should I be using to remove that crappy old primer and also for feather the surrounding area?

    Any minor scratches after using the orbital, should I just dry block sand them with a finer grade?

    Once I`m happy with the finish, I should wipe down the area with a good wax remover/degreaser before shooting a primer over the repaired area?

    I currently have one paint gun. I do plan on getting a second for primer use only. Could I get away with using the 1.4 tip to shoot this very small area for primer if I reduced the primer?

    I was going to use urethane primer, can be used over metal should I sand a little too far and expose some metal?

    Sorry, that`s more than one question :S

    If anyone can recommend some videos online that show a repair involving using the DA, sanding, cleaning, priming and painting? I have seen a bunch but they last about one minute and show nothing that can help.

    April 27, 2010 at 4:11 am #20910

    DA 180 all the rattle can stuff off and feather out. urethane primer surfacer should be ok for bare metal showing. but avoid bare metal if you can. just remove what you have to, nothing more. check your primer data sheet for bare metal compatability. 1.4 is ok to shoot your primer. 3 coats of surfacer. block down all the high spots lightly with 180, follow with 220, 320, 400 DA, 500 DA. final sand with 600 DA. blow off with shop air, degrease. i usually skip 2 sanding sequences in the middle somwethere depending on what i have to work with.

    April 27, 2010 at 5:03 am #20911

    So you don`t wet sand the primer, everything remains dry? I was a bit confused because I have seen vids where guys wet sand the primer, but isn`t primer porous?

    I can use the same reducer that I use for the base/clear with the primer? It`s a medium reducer, general purpose.

    April 27, 2010 at 7:44 am #20915

    [b]maritimesbob wrote:[/b]
    [quote]So you don`t wet sand the primer, everything remains dry? I was a bit confused because I have seen vids where guys wet sand the primer, but isn`t primer porous?

    I can use the same reducer that I use for the base/clear with the primer? It`s a medium reducer, general purpose.[/quote]

    You can use either method. I prefer dry sanding all the way through. Some guys like to wet sand. I think wet sanding is the best way to get a pannel straight though.

    I would check your product data sheets on the reducer. All paint Mfg are different in what reducers go with what product.

    April 28, 2010 at 5:02 am #20927

    dry sand

    April 28, 2010 at 5:53 am #20930

    Thanks guys, lots of help here 🙂

    Should I wish to blend, I noticed on videos a lot of painters using a sanding paste to scuff the oem clear ready for the new clear. Can I just use a scotchbrite pad and keep it dry rather than the paste?

    April 28, 2010 at 7:01 am #20933

    ya ya could but water an paste really deep cleans things an clean is ur best freind when painting

    April 28, 2010 at 8:12 am #20936

    yah yah don’t need the paste just don’t go too coarse :pcorn:

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