problem when baking
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Hello,i brought a new large 3 cassette infrared lamp recently so i can try speed things up a little in my small bodyshop..
just wanting some help really. i repaired a rear panel couple days ago on a mazda, sprayed 3 coats of lessonal straight 2k red,all looked great,job needed to go out same day so i thought a good chance to test out my new lamp :cheer: left it for around 20 mins then put infrared on with correct distance and left for around 10mins,come to have quick look see if all ok and had popped all over :blush: looked like solvent pop but slightly bigger..
any ideas why this happened? i should of taken pics really..
i turned off heater and then when dryed i managed to flatten back and it polished up ok..
just wondering why really as i want to use heater more and cant have this every time etc..
Any help would be great! great forum, i usually pop on here most weeks to have a browse 😉
Hi there is the infra red heater short wave, medium wave, or long wave?? if it is short wave you may of had it to close and cooked the paint..
i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.[/quote]This can be true depending on the product and application. Maybe the product you used was too fast and the heat lamp helped it skin over trapping solvents in. A slower activator and/or reducer may help.
Read the tech sheet for your paint as well as the heat lamp.
macioce made a good point. Some infared lamps cure from the bottom up others cure from the outside in. This can greatly affect the way you dry your work.
[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.[/quote]This can be true depending on the product and application. Maybe the product you used was too fast and the heat lamp helped it skin over trapping solvents in. A slower activator and/or reducer may help.
Read the tech sheet for your paint as well as the heat lamp.
macioce made a good point. Some infared lamps cure from the bottom up others cure from the outside in. This can greatly affect the way you dry your work.[/quote]
here in canada, I like to freeze dry it :kofee then bake it :pcorn: B)
Hi Neil
My name is nick also small shop owner from the uk
Also a lesonal user.
You may have left it to long as suggested above, 20 mins may have allowed case hardening where the outer shell of the paint started to cure.
When you put the lamp on it you drew the solvent through the part cured outer skin on the paint surface.
To be honest i have never been a fan of heat lamp on solid colour’s i have seen them pop to many times.
Also you mention three coats, i know reds can be bad on coverage,
but maybe two full wet coats might not have been as prone to pop.
i think thats where the problem originates, i would def try and stick to two coats if you want to use your lamps a lot.
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.[/quote]This can be true depending on the product and application. Maybe the product you used was too fast and the heat lamp helped it skin over trapping solvents in. A slower activator and/or reducer may help.
Read the tech sheet for your paint as well as the heat lamp.
macioce made a good point. Some infared lamps cure from the bottom up others cure from the outside in. This can greatly affect the way you dry your work.[/quote]
here in canada, I like to freeze dry it :kofee then bake it :pcorn: B)[/quote]
When it is -40 out and the booth barely keeps temps above freezing you get great finishes since the product just flows and flows…the key is getting it outside in the freezing temp to stop the flowing at just the right time :rofl
Enough Canada jokes already….
I put up to 10% Molson Canadian in the clear to prevent it from freezing up in the winter…Budwiser works too but only on American cars…
Bondo’s got me hooked on Keystone now, became available in Canada not long ago…. I’ve only ever popped a clear buy what I figured was putting the light too close/hot.
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]Bondo’s got me hooked on Keystone now, became available in Canada not long ago…. I’ve only ever popped a clear buy what I figured was putting the light too close/hot.[/quote]
shhhh dont let ding here ya say that :lol1 not bad stuff is it even though im drinking a rollin rock today that damn ryan got me back into em 👿 there pretty tasty 2 😉[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]i would put the heat to it right after spraying. paint can be funny with dry times. if you let it sit 20 mins. to air dry, should of left it alone.[/quote]This can be true depending on the product and application. Maybe the product you used was too fast and the heat lamp helped it skin over trapping solvents in. A slower activator and/or reducer may help.
Read the tech sheet for your paint as well as the heat lamp.
macioce made a good point. Some infared lamps cure from the bottom up others cure from the outside in. This can greatly affect the way you dry your work.[/quote]
Yeah this is what i was thinking, should i use slower activator and thinners then if i know im going to be using the infrared on it?
i used fast activator and fast thinners (reducer i think some of you on here call it :cheer: ) as was only doing 1 panel
[b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hi NeilMy name is nick also small shop owner from the uk
Also a lesonal user.
You may have left it to long as suggested above, 20 mins may have allowed case hardening where the outer shell of the paint started to cure.
When you put the lamp on it you drew the solvent through the part cured outer skin on the paint surface.
To be honest i have never been a fan of heat lamp on solid colour’s i have seen them pop to many times.
Also you mention three coats, i know reds can be bad on coverage,
but maybe two full wet coats might not have been as prone to pop.
i think thats where the problem originates, i would def try and stick to two coats if you want to use your lamps a lot.[/quote]
Hi nick, good to see another uk owner here.. 😉 yeah will try putting on straight away on next job see what happens, yeah i would usually use 2 coats no problem but this was a weird red,washy, really clear and didnt want to cover primer at all.. thanks for your help
[b]macioce wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hi there is the infra red heater short wave, medium wave, or long wave?? if it is short wave you may of had it to close and cooked the paint..[/quote]its got long waves fitted to it at mo (crappy ceramic type) but will be changing to shortwaves v soon.. as i know slightly better
Here is the beast :lol1
[img]http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/8194/heat.jpg[/img]]
Enough Canada jokes already….
I put up to 10% Molson Canadian in the clear to prevent it from freezing up in the winter…Budwiser works too but only on American cars…
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