Problems with runs
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I’ve read all the responses and noticed nobody mentioned lighting. Couldn’t poor lighting in the booth be part of the problem? I for one rely on being able to see the wet edge in determining how fast or slow to move. Just my two cents.
Lighting can be a problem, but it would have to be pretty bad. Once you have experience with your products you get a good feeling for it…
Go to the nearest Maaco/whatever, ask the painter how much it would take him to come to your shop. Pay him that and call it done.
My lighting is good, but not the best. I did hire a painter that can paint extremely well but he is slow. Trade off I guess.
high quality strainers will get the runs out :stoned
[quote=”thenextlevel” post=25244]My lighting is good, but not the best. I did hire a painter that can paint extremely well but he is slow. Trade off I guess.[/quote]
A little slow is ok, beats re-dos and pissed off customers.
[quote=”Ben” post=25246]
A little slow is ok, beats re-dos and pissed off customers.[/quote]All day long.
Doing it right first time is much quicker in the long run.
[quote=”JackMarshall” post=25178]Hi.
This is my first post here so please excuse any ignorance.
I am 22 and I would say I am also of similar experience as the guys you are employing. I have been painting full time around 4 years now.
I was taught with a SATA and I never felt in control putting the paint on, it just seemed to run.
In the end I bought a different gun, a Devilbiss Gti Pro and since then I dont remember the last time I got a run or sag.
I also found using a slightly better clear (Lechler) than previous the result was alot better.
So maybe your guys are not experience enough to be top coating or clear coating with a SATA?[/quote]
Devilbiis>sata?????? :rofl
you must not have had it set up right.Or maybe my skill level at the time did not work well with such gun?
The gti pro is well known for being user friendly especially for inexperienced painters.
next level if you are using the euro clear in the red can are you using the reducer? that product can be activated as well. also keystone clears are some of the best on the market they use high quality polymers with top quality active solvents. one more thing and it is a very important thing the keystone euro clear is it is high in SOLIDS it has 49% solids and if laid on too wet it will run. also the most important thing to tell your painter is that euro clear will flow out it has; A SELF LEVELING AGENT only found in high dollar clears this clear is formulated after the ICINexacolor 630 clear. so if your painter is trying to lay it down slick he will run it.
this clear has a 24 hour window to buff or it will be a bit difficult to buff. I think the set up you are using is PRIMO i use Lesonal/Akzo nobel base and Keystone Clears with Pro Prime from Keystone and keystone waterborne sealer and i have great results with the product. and more money in my pocket because of it, i have had my shop benchmarked and i am above the average in profit margins. relatively zero rechecksalso the keystone multipanel clear in the blue can is formulated after the old dupont V7500 clear and any painter that knows his stuff will tell you how good that stuff was. so i dont buy the keystone clears are crap KNOWLEDGE is key.
the Pro Clear from keystone is a 4:1 clear that is better than any other clear that is at the price point $65 a kit.I did find a solution to my problem. I switched materials. I stopped using the Wanda (akzo nobel) and switched to using Omni base. I switched from using the Keystone clear to Finish One and Southern Polyurethane clear. I haven’t had a run or a redo in two weeks. I don’t think keystone clears are crap, but this combination is working for my painter and when he is happy I am happy.
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