Properly prepping bumper that had been refinished
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Just wanted to see what the experts do to prep a factory bumper that had been refinished once before and needs to be refinished again due to a bad color match.
I am just worried that the shop will scuff the bumper and paint over causing a thick mil and possibly chipping and cracking of the paint with a minor bumping.
I’m thinking the bumper needs to be sanded down real well and possibly removing most of the previous refinish, and using the factory paint below as a substrate for the new refinish.
What do you guys do? DA sand? seal again?
Also, anyone have any experience painting Audi Quartz Gray Metallic LY7G using BASF Glasurit Line with the flop and colormatch? I had a Spies Hecker applied and the flop and value (slightly darker than OEM paint) is killing me and I am going the yard to get it repainted out of my pocket.
Well I would do a sprayout card of the color in question first and see how it looks,you also must spray the same clear on your sprayout not cheap spraybomb stuff.This has been covered many times,95% of bumper covers from oem never match,they are always off slightly,have a look at the bumper you didn’t paint and you will see a mismatch.When I do a tricky color the first thing I do is bring out my variant decks and a 3m sungun to find the closest match,do a sprayout,tint to blend,etc.You do not have to sand down your bumper cover to re-do,if it is new paint and only been repainted once.A simple wet scuff with 600 wet,gray scotchbrite,or blend prep and you will be fine.If the color is still giving you fits and it is blendable kick into the fenders and clear.Color matching can be tricky and in this day and age it is difficult to achieve a butt match :chair I use Sikkens Autowave and very rarely have a problem with colormatch from audi to yugo :stoned
[quote=”Jayson M” post=15375]I use Sikkens Autowave and very rarely have a problem with colormatch from audi to yugo :stoned[/quote]
:clappy
how do you do it Jason? Those Daggum Yugo’s are always giving me problems :rofl
Agree with Jayson. I would not sand off the paint. Problem you will run into is there is no way just to sand off the previous paintjob. there will be areas that will be broken through and need primer. The primer will have more build than the previous paintjob.
Color match can be tough. I would blend the fenders if your that worried about it. There is still a chance there will be a slight color difference with blending as you are painting onto 2 different substrates.
the thing is, i can live with the 93% color match that was achieved. but the value (darkness) and the flop depending on low lighting to bright conditions are killing me because the only time it really looks good is in bright conditions. which leads me to believe that a good drop coat would have fixed it since it would reflect more light during low light conditions since it would stand the metallics up. it would also help with flop since it would have the metallics orient in various different ways, giving it a more consistent look, instead of looking so dark at an angle.
usally a drop coat aint gonna lighten the side tone ya just need ta tint it ta get it right i would do a sprayout first b4 painting it agian
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=15388]usally a drop coat aint gonna lighten the side tone ya just need ta tint it ta get it right i would do a sprayout first b4 painting it agian[/quote]
x2! The only thing a drop coat will do in solvent is darken it more. You could add some more of a flop controlling toner if it is in the mix but it will make the metallics appear coarser and will dirty the face up. It could be too much of a larger size flake in the mix. I would leave some of the larger flake out and add back in until the flop looks right. usually if everything else in the color looks good and the flip turns dark it is too much larger flake. Also if there is blue pearl and black in the mix that can darken the flip. Usually if you leave the black out it will also throw the face off. If you leave the pearl out it will darken the face and lighten the flip.
Mess with it a little and kick it into the fenders and be done.
Ryan is bang on :clappy One other thing if the color is wrong you are not going to blend it,look for a lighter variant,on this color in sikkens I bet there would be at least 4 to choose from. Once you have the right variant blend it and send it or spend countless wasted hrs on a butt match.
if the audi came black primed or raw from factory don’t remember what they are and it didn’t get sealed or sealed with to dark a sealer. with that color that is why it could be darker
Looks like everyone has given some great advice. The old paint is a great substrate and if the sealer and clear had flex additives in them, then a second paintjob overtop will not make it crack easily.
One note, do you use anything to reduce static on your plastic parts? Static can make the flakes lay flatter which may make the paint look different than your spray out card (not to mention the added dust it attracts).
i would bet that now the bumper has been painted, and the paint has soaked in some, bet ya that you could use the same paint that was used the first time and get a better match.
i hate tryin to tint paint that has a seisous flop to it. i have notice that sometimes a darker alt. ends up being a better match. for some reason it has the reverse effect for being a darker alt.
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