putty over paint
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I see this all the time, putty being used over feathering. I’ve been informed that this is not the correct way to use putty. Do you agree & what consequences do you think will be encountered?
not on a nice job but ive done it 2 😛 it sorta gaurantees sinkmarks imo the only thing i trust it over is bare steel then ya can get away with murder:side: :side: :side:
Weve done it before,but the results really showed after we buffed it and had it ready for delivery.My suggestion is to at least 36 it then feather with 80 then putty it,remember to blow off the surface after each step.
According to the reps from EVERCOAT.
On late model vehicles they do not want the original paint
removed except for where a stud gun needs to be attached and
so forth. Sand the paint with with P80 grit and apply your
body filler / putty. Finish all body work to P180 before Prime.Reason…they do not want you to remove any of the factory
E-coats for corrosion protection.The EVERCOAT reps came to our shop and did a demonstration
about 5 years ago. I’ve been doing it this way ever since
and have yet to have a problem.I was just flipping through my Glasurit book the other day and I did see a part where they say its acceptable to apply over properly cured paintwork. I’ve always just applied over the and feathered for the most part. I guess this could eliminate the feathering step. I’ve searched through many tds sheets for finishing putties and they’ve usually just specified to the metal. Its good to hear thats what evercoats telling you to do. I think that just might be how I’ll do it from now on. (Or at least try it and see the results)
This is a big No No!! IMO. Guaranteed to contour map in the climate I live in.
I do it all the time,and have been doing it for years, remove enough paint for filler to bite to metal, feather out the paint than skim the whole repair with putty, finish in 320 , prime, proper flash between coats, heat lamp than block when its cooled, never ever had a problem,
Its funny that no paint company will warranty the evercoat technique.In my opinion the old school way is far superior in a long lasting sand scratch free repair.When I do filler work there would be at least an inch or two of bare metal then properly feathered paint with 320 before priming.Most people use putty over paint to cheat in there prep work and never get all the sand scratches out of the paint and prime over them,eventually they come back.
I am with Jayson in that I do not like putty over paint at all.
However, in daily operations I will make some exceptions:
-small dents/free repairs. When you do a panel and there’s some minor damage that’s unrelated, but in an area that will be based over any way, I sometimes cheap out like that rather than base over dents, scratches chips etc.
-Thick Chrysler primer/previous work. When doing small repairs on chrysler vehicles with that thick primer, it can often be not possible to feather the primer far enough out, and stay within an area to be blended. In this case, I grind to bare metal, do any metal work, then fill over the bare metal. Then I will feather the topcoat (base and clear) away from the primer, then skim putty just over the thick primer edge. I’ll carefully sand it, finishing with 220, ensuring there aren’t deep scratches in the primer. I’ll sometimes do something similar when repairing over top of a previous repair that I don’t want to open up too much.
Ben those are excellent examples of how you sometimes have to break the rules to get the job done in a production environment.I agree with you and have had to do many repairs like that over the years.For 95% of the rest of the repairs the old school way works the best :stoned
Well said! Ben and Jayson couldn’t of said it any diferent. I am glad Chrysler has changed there primer. Some of those trucks were terrible for feathering. I usually used spray filler since the body men didint like to fill over the primer.
I do it sometimes, too. Especially where the damage is a bit close to an edge and you don’t want the repair area to grow too much and leave you with not enough room to blend. Only use the Dupont Fine Fill though, not normal lightweight filler. You do need to be careful not to oversand.
test
[quote=”Ben” post=35838]
-Thick Chrysler primer/previous work. When doing small repairs on chrysler vehicles with that thick primer, it can often be not possible to feather.[/quote]
That primer was so thick you could block out small door dings.
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