Quck rivot question
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- This topic has 30 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 4 months ago by Lloyd.
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- August 9, 2010 at 3:02 pm #23699
Anything i have ever seen that has been done with adhesive on the middle of a panel has ghosted. You dont want to lap weld either. Always butt weld the panels in. Lap welds will come back to haunt you as well. They are a no no.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]Anything i have ever seen that has been done with adhesive on the middle of a panel has ghosted. You dont want to lap weld either. Always butt weld the panels in. Lap welds will come back to haunt you as well. They are a no no.[/quote]Maybe just to clarify, there are different methods for repairing different areas. Some area should never be butted. Some should always be lapped (like floor pans). Each part of the car has a specific procedure to follow (as taught with I-Car) and most manufacturers have specific procedures which over ride any industry standards.
However, when doing a rust repair, it is subjective to many variables…
August 10, 2010 at 6:14 am #23724sorry, i was mainly speaking on the exterior body panels, somewhere that will be painted and seen. wasn’t really thinking of floor pans, stuff like that.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]sorry, i was mainly speaking on the exterior body panels, somewhere that will be painted and seen. wasn’t really thinking of floor pans, stuff like that.[/quote]Thats why I wanted to clarify…I was talking in general and figured you were talking about exterior panels only :cheers
August 10, 2010 at 3:21 pm #23746[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]when I do exterior body panels (rust patch) I butt weld a patch in …. takes some practice to master,(no warping) but once you do there is no other way …. lap welds are a rust trap :whistle: :pcorn: B)[/quote]your right but not only that, the tack welds end up being much thicker than the original sheetmetal. the weld may look fine but get it in the sun and the panel heats up you will see the weld. a bunch of dots from tacking. lap welds are often done where the quarters meet the roof then they are leaded. guys that just use regular filler always have a ghosting problem right there because of it. the only thing that locks that down is lead or all-metal filler but really your just hiding the problem and it should be butted together.
August 11, 2010 at 5:39 am #23764[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]when I do exterior body panels (rust patch) I butt weld a patch in …. takes some practice to master,(no warping) but once you do there is no other way …. lap welds are a rust trap :whistle: :pcorn: B)[/quote]your right but not only that, the tack welds end up being much thicker than the original sheetmetal. the weld may look fine but get it in the sun and the panel heats up you will see the weld. a bunch of dots from tacking. lap welds are often done where the quarters meet the roof then they are leaded. guys that just use regular filler always have a ghosting problem right there because of it. the only thing that locks that down is lead or all-metal filler but really your just hiding the problem and it should be butted together.[/quote]
i dont care who you are we all have somthing ta hide from time ta time some of us just are better at hiding it 😉 :rofl :rofl :rofl[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]I pick and file every splice, so there is no need to fill… :rofl[/quote]yah I can mig a patch with no warpage, but when I forge the weld with oxy acetylene, :woohoo:
thats when I seem to get alot of warping :silly: :lol1[/quote]By pick and file, I meant [b]pick[/b] some fiberglass filler and [b]file[/b] it straight with an 8″ grinder 👿
[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]I pick and file every splice, so there is no need to fill… :rofl[/quote]yah I can mig a patch with no warpage, but when I forge the weld with oxy acetylene, :woohoo:
thats when I seem to get alot of warping :silly: :lol1[/quote]By pick and file, I meant [b]pick[/b] some fiberglass filler and [b]file[/b] it straight with an 8″ grinder :evil:[/quote] :lol1
OK, I found a place in town here to get 18 gauge sheet metal (unfortunately, it’s galvanized, so that’s some extra grinding). A 10 foot sheet is $65, so that should work out pretty well for the whole truck until I get inside to the floor pans and such.
It’s a 1971 Ford F-100 truck that I’m working on, can one of you guys who does vintange restoration confirm or deny that 18 guage is about right on this truck. I am just guessing from feeling it actually.
Appreciate all the help you guys give, I wish some of you were in the Belleville, Illinois area, I would like to work for someone for free part-time so I can keep learning on-the-job.
Doc
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