Question about Frame Repair
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Will heating a full frame on a 2010 Dodge Ram while pulling, compromise structural integrity? Please explain why.
Is it mild steel, hydroformed……
What does Dodge say about heating their frames?Dodge doesn’t know it’s ass from it’s elbow, they want me to buy a new frame. It’s high strength steel, I believe it can be done for minor pulls. Does anyone agree or have personal experience with this?
Maybe they want you to change the frame because that is their position on heating. Someones opinion or experience on this site doesnt mean squat unless they are a metallurgist and have done testing on the effects of heat on HSS frame components. Just because something can be done does not mean something should be done.
Dodge does not recommend heating any HSS frame components.
Sounds like your an insurance adjuster trying to get out of indemnifying a customer for the proper repair of their vehicle. Pay up :whistle:oe info can be found through the links at http://www.oemonestop.com
:clappy No actually I work at a body shop and my boss was afraid to straighten this frame which is something I could have done in about an hour. The end result is me losing a weeks pay while he wonders what to do. It probably would have worked cold but I suggested heat and he panicked. All I would have had to do is tie it down behind the suspension and jack it up 3 inches, not rocket science.
LOL @ your insurance adjuster accusation!
I worked for Chrysler for a short while.
I don’t have the info in front of me, but I seem to recall that certain parts of the frame can be worked, others not. Cold is the best way, if possible. The centre section and hydroformed crossmembers shouldn’t be touched much, if at all. The front and rear sections can be worked a bit. If you heat it, you are supposed to use a heat crayon (800 degreee IIRC) and not heat the frame for more than a total of 3 minutes. Heating multiple times is not acceptable.
It can compromise the integrity of the frame by changing the characteristics of the metal. The front are rear are intended to be weaker than the centre (like a crush zone on a uni-body). And the centre is designed to be more rigid. I am sure you understand the dynamics of heating and cooling metal
[quote=”Ben” post=21830]It can compromise the integrity of the frame by changing the characteristics of the metal. The front are rear are intended to be weaker than the centre (like a crush zone on a uni-body). And the centre is designed to be more rigid. I am sure you understand the dynamics of heating and cooling metal[/quote]
I would say no to heat, although I am far from qualified to speak on frame pulling I do however understand the thermal dynamics. Heating metal changes it’s molecular makeup, or it’s original temper. When dealing with such an intricate part of the vehicle, I put people’s safety over my paycheck! I’m not saying it would be a bad thing, or good thing, just something I personally would not risk.
i only use heat on a frame if there is cosmetic damage to it like a kink or buckle on a horn piece for example that will eventually be sectioned but never for structural alignment purposes
[quote=”MoCoke” post=21879]i only use heat on a frame if there is cosmetic damage to it like a kink or buckle on a horn piece for example that will eventually be sectioned but never for structural alignment purposes[/quote]
aw who u $hitten rosebud!!!![quote=”Ben” post=21830]I worked for Chrysler for a short while.
I don’t have the info in front of me, but I seem to recall that certain parts of the frame can be worked, others not. Cold is the best way, if possible. The centre section and hydroformed crossmembers shouldn’t be touched much, if at all. The front and rear sections can be worked a bit. If you heat it, you are supposed to use a heat crayon (800 degreee IIRC) and not heat the frame for more than a total of 3 minutes. Heating multiple times is not acceptable.
It can compromise the integrity of the frame by changing the characteristics of the metal. The front are rear are intended to be weaker than the centre (like a crush zone on a uni-body). And the centre is designed to be more rigid. I am sure you understand the dynamics of heating and cooling metal[/quote]
This is really what I wanted to hear. It’s something I felt I knew anyways but it’s nice to have confirmation. The job I am speaking of had a front frame horn down only 3 inches, without severe buckling and I’m sure I could have done it cold. Thanks for the awesome info!
chrysler only endorses cold straighting on HSS
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=21880][quote=”MoCoke” post=21879]i only use heat on a frame if there is cosmetic damage to it like a kink or buckle on a horn piece for example that will eventually be sectioned but never for structural alignment purposes[/quote]
aw who u $hitten rosebud!!!![/quote]lol yea your rite. to be honest i use the torch to widen the body mounting holes on core supports and shift the body over to where ever the chassis went to. no pulling necessary
thought u used the cuttin torch for that 😉
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