question for the top gunners
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how many of you can say that you spray light metalics flawlessly? and by flawless i mean undectable even to a painter under all lighting conditions. just visually though, not by inspecting jambs or anything.
Ah now , you’re leaning on an open door there! As a smart repairer, i have to constantly manage my customers expectations, and work out whilst giving the quote, how im going to blend in the colour…swages, corners, etc, how tough the colours going to be…. light golds for instance are seldom right bumper to body on a straight from factory car,We have an Audi A4 in Europe that has a three way join at the rear that in Silver can look like 3 diff complimentary colours, and it isnt even a pearl finish! A lot of my work comes from end of lease cars that have to be examined by a paint expert, sometimes with a paint thickness gauge so i would be confident of blending in within a hand width on a scuff on a corner but maybe have a larger blend area on a flat door.Of course i also have some elderly customers who also think I do magic work, but quite how they will see a blend area when they didnt see the bright red and yellow 10 ft high and wide bus in the first place i dont bother to ask! :blush: Best wishes Rob
For me it just depends on the color. Some colors I spray look great! Other colors mop the floor with me! It just depends.
i think it depends on the car you can take an old pile of crap thats way off standard tint it once blow out a miracle blend not have ta buff it every thing just works better or an 2010 what ever that has ta be nuts an just barely squeak it out the door thats just what paint does ta ur mind sometimes :wak :wak
my silvers were coming out a little ugly until i used clear base first and slow reducer and now im able to say silvers come out real nice. i hate spraying them only because gloss doesnt really show as good as it does with any other color
Some silvers are easy and some are not but trying to blend a silver solvent base over a car that has been painted with water base paint is tough
There’s so many factors to blending a color like silver then none of us will get it right EVERY time and anyone who says they do better knock on wood. Some systems and colors may not have the most accurate alternates or you may not pick the best one. Some silvers might match up with one system and another they may be WAY out to lunch. You can spray one blend one day and another do the exact same blend in the exact same fashion and just the different conditions like humidity and temp will make one go completely @$$ backwards. Were all somewhat slaves to our environment. Things like taking an extra 5 minutes to color match and using a wetbed helps minimize our redos. But we can do everything right some days but if we pissed off Jesus the day before we can still be screwed. I’m very confident in my blends but I’m not dumb enough not to admit that I don’t have to redo one once in awhile. Theres a lot of factors to consider and were all human in the end. however, i’m looking into a series of operations that will change that! :evil:.
Most of the problems I see are from guys over thinking. Just go in there and do what you know how to do. We rarely have issues with blends, water has helped with some of those issues, blends easier. We do wet beds on every blend,metallic or not, that way we dont forget. Keep things simple, and organized and you wont have issues. Gun setup and proper technique is a must to get good blends. This stuff isnt hard, just take your time and get to know your gun! 🙂
I dont have much trouble with my blends. But.. I do have trouble with my variants matching whats on the car. I also fight Honda NH658P. No matter what I do it mottles and streaks like crazy. I have tried different guns, air pressure, spray speed and distance. NOTHING WORKS! I just have to send it out like that. I feel like crap for doing it but I have no choice 👿
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]I dont have much trouble with my blends. But.. I do have trouble with my variants matching whats on the car. I also fight Honda NH658P. No matter what I do it mottles and streaks like crazy. I have tried different guns, air pressure, spray speed and distance. NOTHING WORKS! I just have to send it out like that. I feel like crap for doing it but I have no choice :evil:[/quote]
start turning your fluid in an i bet you solve 90% of that problem we both shoot pretty much the same brand of paint so im guessing youve got ur fluid way 2 far open for our base i do most of mine with an RP 1.3 what kinda gun you using for ur base??? maybey i can help ya some on this one cuz i used ta have the same problem till i figured a few trick out in our system 😉 for starters our base dont like being shot fat period . also you will get alot less dirt in it if ya crank that fluid in an run the fan wide open 😉 i set my gun up completly different for my base than my clear if your not changing your setup i can see why your fighting that color feel free ta ask me an hopefully we can cure whats been kicking ya 😉 urs truely BONDO :cheersWow so I did a ford today with paint code kk… I was playing around and thinned the paint alot more than I have been.. well it worked out great and evean dried faster I think….
Nope.
I don’t mind admitting that I don’t it right every single time, but then I have to work at such a pace that my only option is to “throw it on and hope for the best” :S
Following on from what bondomerchant said above – I use an Iwata W400WBX for my base, and was struggling a bit with blends, so had a play with a SATA NR that one of my guys has. I found that to be so much better than the Iwata, but after a few jobs I worked out why. The SATA seems to put out a lot less material than the WBX, despite having the same 1.3 tip. I went back to my own gun and turned the fluid needle in quite a long way, and it’s more than a match for his SATA now. It’s slowed me down a little, but the jobs look so much better for it 🙂
start turning your fluid in an i bet you solve 90% of that problem we both shoot pretty much the same brand of paint so im guessing youve got ur fluid way 2 far open for our base i do most of mine with an RP 1.3 what kinda gun you using for ur base??? maybey i can help ya some on this one cuz i used ta have the same problem till i figured a few trick out in our system 😉 for starters our base dont like being shot fat period . also you will get alot less dirt in it if ya crank that fluid in an run the fan wide open 😉 i set my gun up completly different for my base than my clear if your not changing your setup i can see why your fighting that color feel free ta ask me an hopefully we can cure whats been kicking ya 😉 urs truely BONDO :cheers[/quote]
Ya know what! Thats funny you mention turning the fluid in. I just painted another honda (differnt color) but it was giving me the same fit as the the other. I use a Sata 3000 HVLP 1.3 for my base. I was running it 2.5 turns out just like I did with my 2000. I realized the threads were different between the two. So… I turned it in 1 turn, switched to a slower stabilizer (BS10), used faster strokes and it turned out much better! Thanks for the advice Bondo! I have other issues that I have to deal with at times too though :S I always have problems with my sealer and base drifting onto ajacent pannels. Rep always says no one else has that problem :silly:
Ok, What is meant by a “wet bed”? I’m new so forgive me if I don’t understand some of the lingo. I’m trying to learn.
[b]fordor wrote:[/b]
[quote]Ok, What is meant by a “wet bed”? I’m new so forgive me if I don’t understand some of the lingo. I’m trying to learn.[/quote]Laying down a clear basecoat to fill in sandscratches before applying color. Keeps metallics on the blend area oriented correctly.
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