Questions about Iwata’s vs Sata
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Okay I’ll start by writing what i have noticed
–I’am spraying spies paint at the shop I work at.–
I’ve being using Sata since I was serious enough into painting to buy a gun worth more than $200.I get really good results with Sata guns I own the RP and NR 3000. Through my experience I’ve notice not every color is a walk in the park.So thats also why I like to buy the best reviewed guns.So I started to buy Iwata guns.Started with the LPH400.I love the silver cap for Spies Sealer,solid colors and 1k products like basecoat blender and bulldog.So I bought another one with the lvb and lvx cap. This is where the problems began. I like both guns because the low overspray.I used the lvb cap on a Ford Focus(paintcode: cx dark grey metallic) and it looked great but I had to cut my speed in half.Which is okay I’ll trade speed for quality anyday.Now the Lvx is the problem I bought it to see if it could stand up to the sata nr3000 when spraying metallics.But its either couldy or if u look on the side with a 3m sungun you can see the blend. Now I know alot of you are going to say just use the Sata and thats what I have come down to. But I know the LVX deserves more than just to be a nice jamb and cut in gun.
If anyone has had this problem please reply how you use this gun to make it work the way people on this site says it works.
Also the LPh400 silver cap for clears is okay a lil orange peel but I have a ws400 clear gun on the way and I can’t wait to try that one out.Im a new memeber and want to thank you guys for all your tips and reviews. I can’t believe it took me this long to become a member.
I wish your question was about any other tip besides the LVX, it’s the only one I haven’t used yet. I just use the silver cap for my base and haven’t had any problems with it, the LVB I use from time to time also. I have a W400 for my clear that I love, I don’t know what a WS is or if it’s the same but let me know what you think of it. Good to have you here, welcome to the site!
I have shot alot of Spies and Standox and have both an Iwata and Sata.. To be honest and this might not be what you want to hear but the Sata works better for Spies solvent base. One thing that has helped me with spraying base with the LVX aircap is to narrow the fan some. It will help get rid of some of that dryness on your blend that your seeing with the sungun. Also lowering my air pressure on the blend would help.
One thing I always did with Spies solvent was to spray my blend first and work my way in. Seems to work good with the Iwata like that. Still the Sata seems to work easier for metallics.
What clear are you spraying? I never liked the LPH for the Spies clears. Little to high solids for the LPH to handle. The W-400lv or a Sata RP 1.2 seemed to work alot better. I always liked 8035 the best. 8180 was nice for a job you needed to dry up pretty quick. 8600 is also very nice but really thick. 8600 is not a beginners clear.
Have you ever tried using over-reduced clear for your wet bed?
Are shop just switched from Standox to Spies 4 months ago and because the booths we have are raised downdrafts were having a problem with die back. Techs are saying its because of low air flow. So we went from the 8035 Hs the 8180 Ms. I didn’t like the way LPH400 LV sprayed clear also but its an awesome gun for what I use it for. I dont get dry spray from the Iwata or Sata ,I just feel a little overspray feel on the blend panels with the Sata’s but the Iwata Blend Panels are smooth the problem is I can see the blend on the side tone. Its hard to explain because I’m kinda a newb when it come to technical terms but when in the booth the metallics on most silvers look like they are siting on top and give the side tone a silver light tone .Now with the sata LVB it mimics that pretty good.The sata gets it to the point its not noticeable but the LVX lays down that metallic flat so u can’t see the blend from the front angle but you can see it from the side.I’ve tried mixing basecoat colorless 2 to 1 and I tried the low pressure effect coat.I’ll try closing the fan and see what happens.I never used the lph400 silver cap for metallics so I’ll try that too. The techs taught me how to make the wet bed but I got two different ways, is it activated hardner than 9 to 1 with reducers or 3 to 1 with reducers
Thanks guys for the quick replies[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote] I have a W400 for my clear that I love, I don’t know what a WS is or if it’s the same but let me know what you think of it. [/quote]
The WS400,(a.k.a. Supernova) is the replacement for the W400. If you haven’t seen one, then you ought to – they really do look sweet (pininfarina styled them), and spray even better. If you like the W400, you’ll love the new WS 😉you probably will not like the silver cap for base. Are you spraying the basecoat very wet? It doesn’t like to be sprayed dry. My first coat was about 80% wet. second coat about 75% wet. And third coat about 40-60% wet. Also may want to try a 1.4 nozzle with your LVX. That might help with blending.
Also tack your blend area between coats and it will help your blend.
8035 likes airflow, but I thought 8180 would die back a little in my booth.
I’ve read the silver cap isn’t good with metallics thats why i havent tried it. I can get the metallics to look awesome with the sata its just the Iwata I dont know if i need to change my technique. I use 1.3 for everything clear and base so a 1.4 would be a big change you think it will help because thats a $175 investment. Alot painters in our area say they hate the spies for everything colormatch and clear and i would have to agree with them. 8180 still dies back and the techs just gave up on us the funny thing is the sata lays it smooth and then it dies backs but the iwata lays it peely and I don’t get as much dieback.
The silver cap is all I ever use, like ryan said, lowering air pressure helps big time to avoid getting a dry spray in your blend. I haven’t tried a 1.4 with the gun but am willing to bet it works a lot better, don’t wanna spend that 175 either!
(I also always use an orientation coat, usually transparent base but have also used over-reduced clear and it makes life a lot easier)
The only thing you need for a 1.4 is just the nozzle. they are only about $90. I would definately try one before you buy just to be safe.
To be honest just stick with the Sata if you like the results. Some guns just fit a certain paint or someones spraying style better. I wouldn’t fight it just go with what works.
I love Spies. Had great results with it. The colormatch has gone down a little since Herbert’s sold it to Dupont. I always had better luck with 8035 reducing it a little under 10% and 2 coating it. Don’t let it get hand slick either, just give it a few minutes flash. Don’t go too slow or too fast with the hardener either. I would use 3315 all year except for when it got over 75-78 degrees or when the humidity got higher above 72 degrees. I found a Sata RP 1.2 gave me the best results with their clear and the Iwata W-400lv 1.3 right behind it. The LPH struggled.
okay guys I will give all this advice a try on monday and let you guys know if I fall in love with my lvx.. I think my Ws400 aka supernova is coming in on tuesday I’ll write back on what i think of it
[b]Papipab wrote:[/b]
[quote]I think my Ws400 aka supernova is coming in on tuesday I’ll write back on what i think of it[/quote]
Hope you like it as much as I like mine. It almost makes me look like a good painter :roflI too have experienced the cloudyness with the LVX. I use sherwin williams and my Sata NR2000 lays met. great. I love the Iwata for clear but I dont think met is its strong point. I can get pretty good results with the LVB cap but it tends to stripe on me. It seems like its a very finiky air cap. I have used both the 1.3 and 1.4 with the LVX cap and its still slightly coudy. I think some painters are more picky than others on how their jobs look. I think that guys that rave about the LVX are the ones who let the cloudy jobs go out the door. Just my opinion 😛
Well the office personal at the shop haven’t notice some of my cloudy Iwata jobs even with me pointing it out. But I don’t want to question the experience of the painters on this site that have been painting longer than I have.I think there has to be something I’m doing wrong because I have spray some flawless metallics with the lvx but it takes me some work.
By the way my jobber work today and brought me the ws400 clear but what number is the 3m pps number for them is it the same as the lph400
I have done plenty of jobs with the LVX without cloudyness. It is easier with a Sata but can be done with an Iwata without to much trouble. You have to watch your fan.
well do you follow the 16 psi or do you up the psi to 25 like some guys
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