Quick question on orientation coat for blending
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Having never used an orientation coat/ clear base coat for blending.. what would happen if you were doing a clearcoat blend on the same job and you went too far with the clear base up into where the clear was going to be blended and buffed back?
Would there be a foggy edge like there would be with a coloured base?
Just wondered really as Im looking to use this technique in the future to help with blends but alot of my work involves clearcoat blends (which arnt ideal, id much rather clear the full panel).
Regards.
Hey mate, I don’t really understand what you mean but is it something to do with eg you want to blow in a corner of a bumper and not paint the whole bumper , to loose your clear coat edge
If your doing half a bumper and the are has been repaired and primed, the your flatted the primer and scotched the half of the bumper. And you want to loose your clear coat say round the number plate area. Use a course compound ie ferecala g6. Once the bumper is masked and ready to paint and use layers down your base sealer to help blend the colour , once you’ve layer down a medium wet coat over the base but staying away from the number plate area. Next coat cover move ang get choose to where you want to blend the clear. Then tip you clear coat out the gun but leave a drop full in the gun the add the fade out blend in the gun turn the pressure down and lightly blow over the edge of the last coat to help blend in. Then bake leave and a hour or so and polish by hand. If you buff you can cut the thin blend mix back to far and it will be able to see it 🙂
To avoid having to clear blend just show the insurance the paint companies memo saying they wont warranty any paint that has been clear blended. Most paint companies have them. Even I-Car has a document saying not to clear blend. After enough times they stop asking you to do it.
Sorry, my question was not clear. What I mean is will clear basecoat (used as orientation coat) buff back invisibly if I accidently blow it over my clearcoat blend area? Hope that makes more sence!
If you spray a clear base over an unsanded panel, it should wipe of with preclean . I’m thinking you had some get by your masking? If your using the clear base as a wet bed for the metallic orientation, just clear over it. If you start wiping itt away frm the pane
l edge……where you gonna stop? Am I confused enough now?I’m guessing you already cleared the panel. You can buff it back and make it look presentable. biggest issue is base needs a specific film build of clear to provide adequate uv protection. you likely dont have that at your blend area now. eventually the sun will break down the clear base and the paint will fail.
What ding said. Another problem is going to be the clear basecoat (which is essentially just basecoat) being exposed to moisture at the edge. It will eventually seep underneath and will peel back. you have to have clear going past the basecoat. The UV rays will damage it also as Ding said.
For spot repairs use a gold scuff pad or P3000 on a d/a. Go well beyond where you think you will have paint. Still try and keep the repair as small as possible. it is always easier to give yourself more room than not enough. That way if your first melt-in doesn’t turn out the way you want you can just take it a bit further. If it does turn out nice just let it dry and give the P3000 scratches a quick polish.
I agree with what ding said, but what kind the wet bed ur using? Binder something like rm bc100? Or the one u mix it like clear coat?
Hey guys, thanks for the input.
Its not an issue Ive had, it was just something I wondered about as I am going to start and use the wet bed method for my blends on silvers and such.
I hadnt thought about the base not being protected from UV or moisture, good point.
Its not likely something I will have a problem with, just a thought if it did happen would it buff invisibly.
Usually Id rather clear the entire panel but you know how it is sometime, not just with insurance companies either. Price is everything to some customers, quality is an after thought.
A few good points have alreay been raised but as a suggestion moving forward, you can use an over-reduced clear as an orientation coat instead. I’d still try and cover it again when you clear at the end, but its not so much an issue. Mix some clear, over-reduce the hell out of it (around 8:1 reducer:catalized clear) and spray before you start. I’ve done this many times with solvent paint but not with water, i would think it to work the same.
I use the 8:1 over reduced DC5335 clear under Onyx. No problems.
ah, good to know.
Thanks for the suggestion, sounds like a good method. Is the over reduced clear not still tacky while your tack clothing between coats of base?
I think I will try the clear base as orientation as I can tip it out the gun and shouldnt affect the colour base if theres a little left behind.
no it drys quick
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