RM Onxy HD !!!
- This topic has 5 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 4 months ago by .
- Posts
So I’m about to work in a high production collision shop that uses Onxy HD. I was working at a normal body shop that did about 10-15 cars a week ( Bumpers, Fenders, Simple blends, etc) and never had any problems. We used Sikkens Autowave and never had a problem learning the dynamics of the waterbase and clears. But now I’m kinda confused with the Paint line that has the ability to be made into a solvent or water. So the basic question that I’m asking is how does it work ? How do I make it a water base or solvent ? Whats the differences on how it lays on ? Whats my best gun setup ( I’m using Iwatas LS400, WS400, and LPH400 for guns.) ? How are the clears ? Is there in differences in blending ?
There are a couple of very experienced basf users and one rep on the site,I’m sure one of them will be here to help you.
They system is able to be used as a low voc and a water system because the toners still contain solvent. The choice to use either low voc or water is made on your computer. Low voc sprays like a traditional solvent system that is pretty thin in viscosity. Coverage is pretty good, most colors are 2-3 coats. Solids are extremely high hiding. Dry time is excellent. For low voc use nothing smaller than a 1.4, a 1.3 can dramatically affect metallic control. As for the water side there are guys who dislike the system and guys who love it. I came from a 300 hr a week shop and used it and loved it. Reducing the water 80% Helps allot with dry times . I would strongly suggest using hb005 and hb040 rather than hb002 and hb020 . It makes de nibbing and tacking bunch easier as it dries more thorough rather than the hb002 that tends to skim the top before thoroughly drying the base. Blends are easy. I never use a wet bed but it is an option, As for gun set up on water, with an Iwata i would recommend a 1.5 tip.
Yes a 1.5 for water or solvent is recommended.
To mix up the solvent version you’ll find formula’s for it under the Onyx production paintline, that’s how it’s referred to in the software. If it just says Onyx then your working with the waterborne formulas. The Onyx production formulas will not contain the water binders (hb002/hb020) and will have solvent binders instead (sb01,sb02…). You will have different reductions with the solvent depending if it’s a solid or metallic color, solid colors don’t get reduced. Generally you have to push F2 in smarttrack to bring up the RFU option same as adding HB020 to water. This will also add the DH100 hardener that is not optional and must be used with the solvent, it will cut the potlife to 8hrs.
You currently have two choices of reducers for the solvent,VR0 and RMR09. I’m told RMR09 is a little nicer and slower but I have many people say they don’t find much difference. The reducers are a bit fast for doing very large jobs so typically you’ll use it on smaller things and in cases where humidity is slowing down the water too much. I do have people that spray completes with the solvent and they don’t touch the water binders but I don’t think I’d recommend that. It lays out nice and blends quite easily, I’ve never seen anyone use an orientation coat. They do have one option for orientation coats which is the SB01 reduced and hardened but I’ve always discouraged it because I’ve been cautioned that it will change the blend panel color after 2 coats (so I just say heck with it all together).
If your working in a high end booth you might find the water a better choice overall and as mentioned you may find the slower water reducers work better. I find they are best in dry heat conditions, if it gets a bit humid they will really slow you down. Most guys reduce it 60% but you can try 80% and see what you prefer. The HB055 is the wetbed/orientation coat that can only be used with the water, it gets reduced 60% HB020 and sprayed to your blend panels. I’ve sprayed into it while wet, after the first, second..etc and had mixed results. Most people just do it at the beginning if they’re going to use it, let it flash and start painting but you can play around with it. You can also mix it into your basecoat, it will make it more transparent but it can make it easier to blend and even out blotchiness if you have a problem color. The application for both products is 2 coats (or coverage) then a drop coat around 20 psi about 12 inches away to even out the finish and shift the color to match your colormax chips.
As for clears, I prefered the Glasurit clears for the most part but I’m pretty happy with the newest RM clear DC5995. The most popular one I come across is DC98 and DC5800 as a production clear. In Glasurit 923-220 seems to be the choice, I used to spray 923-200 but I think 220 is a tad quicker. The WS400 will work well for these clears, usually a 1.3/1.4 is fine.
Best advice I can give you is to spend some time looking over the tech sheets. The BASF website (http://www.basfrefinish.com) is easy to navigate and the RM tech sheets are very informative.
WOW 1.5 :cens I thought that would be a little too big. Well looks like I need some new guns because both my LPH400 and LS400 are 1.3 . Thanks for all the help and info hopefully I can learn quick with some practice. If there’s any more information please don’t be shy to share 😉
I used to spray Onyx at my previous shop and while it had its drawbacks I found it pretty easy to work with. I used Sata 3000’s with a 1.4 tip for both low VOC solvent and water. I used HB004 and HB040 for most of the year and I was using it up until I left in July. I would’ve switched to HB004/HB020 now though. Some colors, reds and colors that had a lot of hb250, were poor hiding. The metallics lay down nice and a lot of times using water I didn’t even need an effect coat.
I wish I was still spraying it. I’m spraying BMW first gen color system and Spies solvent now and I hate both of them with a passion.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.