s2000 Crack Repair
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[quote=”Nexson” post=18865]Flexible glazing putty and fibertech, meant for plastics and body panels of this type. It works fine, it isn’t built up more then it should be.
Duraglass is green BTW[/quote]
We all know duraglass is green and thats what it looks like on the monitor. since no one is there to see you do it in person, they are all trying to give you good advise based on the photos they see :pcorn:Well it is defintely purple on my screen! and purple in person;)
I will see how well it holds up when i get it back this weekend. Everyone is going to have their way of doing it, but it comes down to it, all that mnatters is that it bonds.
Sure looks green here and yes I know what duraglass looks like, I have spread many many gallons of it over the years, probably when you were still in diapers 😛
Straight off the evercoat web site-
Its superior strength and adhesion is ideal for repairing SMC, [color=#bb0000]rigid[/color] plastic body panels, i.e., ground effects, spoilers, running boards, fenders, hoods, etc.From what I can see that is not a rigid cover, it will eventually crack or pop. Try to get away from using anything that is not flexible. Fusor makes a complete line for doing these repairs properly. They will expand and contract at different rates especially in that warm Florida summer sun. Just something to keep in mind..
Okay, when it cracks and pops right off the plastic, I will let you know joe =)
looks good brian.
I’d love to get my hands on one of those hot staple things whenever I get another crack repair.
when a platic welder is bought should get one with the different settings (temp) for different plastics as different plastics have a different melting point and if u use to much heat on some of them they become brittle and not enuff heat then won’t bond properly.. Just my 2 cents worth… I plastic weld were ever possible then use the fusor (red usually) to finish it off and have never had a issue doing them this way.. If u don’t v or u groove the plastic before welding or bonding you loose strength in the repair and also there is a good chance it will ghost on u..
I would have just left the cover on the car, drilled a large hole bigger than the damage and used some expandable foam. once it is dry, cut off the excess and start loading the primer on it. 1K aerosol is preferred.
😛
Stop speaking for Bondo ryan:p :rofl
Looks good.
It looks like PP (Polypropylene) so being a thermoplastic welding would have been a stronger repair. (Because the part can physically be bonded to itself. and because you can melt stainless mesh into it for further reinforcement, thus you can make a stronger repair then the base plastic had itself.But the adhesive way definitely is adequate, although when you look at the investment of a welder compared to the cost of the expensive ass adhesives and applicators it can pay for itself over time. (I know my 3m gun cost me nearly a bill, and my adhesives run in the 30-60 dollar range. Which in the end is nearly the cost of a welder.)
Only thing I would note because I can’t really tell from your pictures is that when you’re doing a plastic repair, especially when doing a bonding repair, always cut a bowl groove into the damage area simply because you’re relying on the strength of the bonding material to hold it together, (as much as possible is generally better, And taking a standard high speed and cutting a groove into it then hitting it with some 60-80 grit is a pretty quick thing to do.)
Also, always do your best to round your sharp edges, not rounding creates high stress points during flexing, expanding and contracting. And can lead to tears, but more commonly can lead to ghosting. Rounding and spreading your stress points out is always the way to go.
good job on the repair,i had fix my own bumper this way 2 years ago and have hit huge dips with my bumper many times with out even a single spider crack. It will hold up, for what equiptment that we can get our hands on, it’s a good alternative. good stuff nex:rock
As a note from the mobile world where back side repairs aren’t done,:hunt. On a crack like that, you could just get it really hot and smear it onto itself so you are using the same material. Or, melt mesh, I use grease splatter screen then do your repair. Good job on drilling out the end of the crack too. You can also drill holes around the crack to get your filler keyed in more spots. That will help.
I did just a front side repair on a 10in crack with just epoxy a couple months ago and had to redo it this week. I will get out my welder from now on. These type of repairs are a lot more tricky then people think. That is why bodyshops prefer buying new ones.
I had someone tell me to ditch the ADPRO and get a torch instead and flame the plastic to increase adhesion. They said that the promoter was causing a weak link. If you ask 10 people the same question you often will get 12 different answers.
I can see that you obviously know more than someone who has been in the business 20 years, do what you want, but dont get bent out of shape when people comment on what you are doing. You repaired the crack correctly from the backside,I will give you that, but the rest of the repair is not right. The repair will show at some point I would be willing to put big money on it.. You came here for guidance how many months ago, now that you have painted a few bumpers in your garage you think you are a pro. We are only trying to help, so lose the attitude or dont post!
[quote=”Joe@FCAB” post=18895]I can see that you obviously know more than someone who has been in the business 20 years, do what you want, but dont get bent out of shape when people comment on what you are doing. You repaired the crack correctly from the backside,I will give you that, but the rest of the repair is not right. The repair will show at some point I would be willing to put big money on it.. You came here for guidance how many months ago, now that you have painted a few bumpers in your garage you think you are a pro. We are only trying to help, so lose the attitude or dont post![/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
Joe,
in Brian’s defense, he has been working with plastic for years. Before he came on here with some paint work he was doing plastic fabrication.Thanks Nelson.
I have been doing plastic way before bumpers.
Thanks Joe for your support, you seem to be getting worked up about this the most.:compsmash
Not sure when I said I was a Pro? but thanks for the compliment :dnc
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