Sagola Vs. Sata
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Ive gotten a couple sags with the 1.4 Sagola on some more complex parts. So I talked to the rep today and he is going to bring me a 1.2 3000 RP next week to try out. I may pick it up if its a good price, for doing bumper covers and such. I love the Sagola for overalls/hoods…etc… but I find myself cranking the material down when doing collision work. New nozzel and tip for it is $150, so I figured that is almost 1/3 the price of a new gun. Could very well be me and how I spray, but will enjoy trying out a different (and highly recommended) gun either way.
Actually a 1.2 is not going to work well with the materials you are spraying,1.3 or 1.4 works better with 2021.If you bump up your pressure,move in tighter and closer and move faster you will not get sags.
I rarely use 2021. Only on the show cars. For everyday collision work its typically the DC 2000 speed clear and once in a while 2042. We typically do 9 full frame off nut and bolt restos a year.
I have ran 15 psi on the last couple and it works well because I get less nibs, but definately easier to sag on the bumper covers that way.[quote=”gtome” post=30783]I rarely use 2021. Only on the show cars. For everyday collision work its typically the DC 2000 speed clear and once in a while 2042. We typically do 9 full frame off nut and bolt restos a year.
I have ran 15 psi on the last couple and it works well because I get less nibs, but definately easier to sag on the bumper covers that way.[/quote]15 psi? :blink: wash the cars better and get an rp
15 psi is stupid :headsmack: no shit its going to run.. lets be honest a sagola doesn’t atomize that well :S Why on earth would you use speed clears on collision jobs,short of a cover or jamb?you can use 2021 or at least 3000 on collision jobs there is always a way to speed things up with out sacrificing gloss :deadhorse
No man when I spray a fender or something without so many peaks and curves like a bumper cover, 15 psi sprays freekin slick! No joke. I was shocked myself.
We dont have a baking booth and I cant have a collision job sitting in the booth all day. 2021 is a 12 hour clear. I have to use something that will flash fast so I can get moving onto the next job. 2042 I believe is a 5 hour clear. So I use the DC2000 which is a wet on wet 10 min clear if I remember right (nib in 25 min). I probably could do a DC3000. I think its like 1.5 hour clear. And maybe I should be more specific. We really only do light collision. A bumper cover, or a fender or quarter blend. That kind of thing. Never really noticed a gloss problem with the 2000?
The boss is considering changing systems thats why I havent taken a product course yet.I just had a Versa in the shop, the rear bumper looked like it was sprayed at 15 psi. :s
15 psi is like spray can pressure.
Sorry still disagree with 15psi :headsmack: solvent pop and dieback will kick you in the balls one day soon.you are relying on your paint to flow as opposed to atomization and spraying it the way you want it to look.Its all about controling the paint not having the paint control you(runs)Our shop ran with one booth and 16 bodymen and painted 10 jobs a day with the old homemade downdraft with no bake cycle,so one job in the booth all day is bs.
That’s possible, only time will tell. And I don’t spray color at 15 psi, just the clear. I really can’t make clear dry faster than it will?? Not saying 15 psi is right or the way it should be, just something I tried and the clear laid out nice. That’s all I can tell you. Here are 2 of the 3 I did at 15. Not the greatest ever, bit certainly not the worst either. Just trying stuff here fellas, don’t have to beat me up over it.
That’s possible, only time will tell. And I don’t spray color at 15 psi, just the clear. I really can’t make clear dry faster than it will?? Not saying 15 psi is right or the way it should be, just something I tried and the clear laid out nice. That’s all I can tell you. Here are 2 of the 3 I did at 15. Not the greatest ever, bit certainly not the worst either. Just trying stuff here fellas, don’t have to beat me up over it.
Read a tech sheet.. you can change the dry times by changing hardeners,reducers,adding accelerator etc.What I don’t understand is there are experienced guys who tell you its not an accepted practice and we have all tried it,but you persist,it makes no sense.Nobody is beating you up we are just trying to help you do it the right way.
You told me it wasnt an accepted practice 5 minutes ago??!! I didnt run out and spray 5 more since then is what im getting at. I tried it, came here for some input, you all told me it wouldnt work….it would look like shit….and would solvent pop (even though none of things happened TO ME). Got it. And I agree, I dont think its the way it should be done. But I sprayed something junk with it at 15psi, and it layed out sweet. Looked slick, no pop, so I tried it on a couple more. Maybe I just got lucky? Maybe the 10 minute clear masked things? I dont really know. But I do appriciate the input. You could be saving me from some extreme headaches down the road.
Also I will look into other clears, but just so IM clear, you think the DC2000 wont hold out the gloss like say a 3000 or 2021 will? Im just wanting to understand the why to go along with the what, if that makes any sense.A specific 9 frame offs a year. People prob are catching the buzz of ur paint jobs at 15 psi. Got em lined up :deadhorse
Do you even read tech sheets or do you just wing it?I don’t ever recall a manufacturer suggesting 15psi 😉 The faster you make something dry you will get trade offs.Speed clears all die back,it might not be the next day it could be a week,or 6 months when you see it next its a crap shoot.
Look at it this way when you spray clear at 15 psi you are putting on a heavy wet coat full of solvents,and when you put on another coat where is all that solvent going to go?It will look like leather when its cured and all of the solvents have evaporated.Thin wet coats will dry faster and retain gloss… proven fact.
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