Sata 3000 RP1.3 help
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hey, i finally got an RP and got the chance to use it today and im not too happy with it but i think its something on my end.
First off, i used it for base and it seemed a little too slow, i was cleaning it and noticed paint leaking around the fluid control valve and spring. what could be the cause of this? its a brand new gun and pressure was around 23 psi.
For clear, it seemed to spray a little too dry requiring an additional 3rd coat. ive herd everyone ranting about how great this gun is for clear but what am i doing wrong? pressure was almost 32 psi at the gun
I know its my first time using it so im assuming im doing something wrong. any feed back would be great
this gun is a little tricky. first yes it’s slow. but not as slow as a hvlp. it shouldn’t of have leak fluid, make sure that the control valve is turned in some. and also reset the fan pattern, it can be wide, it’s the only gun that i’ve used that could cover a whole panel in one shot.
as for clear, you have to move slow also, make sure your fan spray pattern is around 8 inches. the psi is fine. you almost have to lay it on really wet. on a side note i wouldn’t use the same gun for baseing and clearing.thats weird ive heard that gun called everything but slow :S
If you have fluid leaking at your spring and fluid knob,TAKE IT BACK,there is a seal in the back of the gun that is faulty.Secondly disregard what lild said,run your fan wide open and your fluid control wide open.Another way is to pull the trigger and turn the fluid knob in until you feel the trigger move slightly,that is perfect.These guns work best at about 3-5 inches from the surface when clearing with a 75% overlap,30-35psi for clear is fine 23 for base is too low,should be at least 28psi for base.Personally I do not like the 1.3 I feel it over atomizes the clear that I use,I prefer a 1.4 and it is plenty fast.You can’t even give that gun a fair evaluation,it will not work 100% with a leaky seal,every gun has a learning curve.If you do lots of large jobs like myself you would be better with a 1.4
i just got the same gun in a 1.4. i used it for the first time the other day and being an iwata user it takes a little bit to get used to. one, it uses twice the amount of clear as the iwata which of course i dont like. i believe it says to run at 35psi. i dont even know how that is possible. it blows so hard it just doesn’t feel right. i had some smaller parts to shoot some clear on as well and i turned the psi down to 19-20……ahhhh just right. that gun at 19 psi is just what i am used to. the overall i did with it i had it running at 30. the gun is fast and really atomizes. it lays down clear like nothing else but man, my iwata will do the same thing at that kind of psi. i could understand it if it didn’t waste soooo much material. anyway, like most satas its a great gun but those of you that use one regularly, are you really running that kind of psi through it and if so dont you burn an insane amount of material??
Good post Jason! Sounds like you know how to get it done!
Quote,,,,”run your fan wide open and your fluid control wide open. Another way is to pull the trigger and turn the fluid knob in until you feel the trigger move slightly,that is perfect” end quote.
That’s the way I would set up my DeVilbiss guns. (I would turn the fan in just a little)
If you were to check your milage I think you will find that you will get more build out of the Sata. I did a little testing awhile back with a mil gauge. I had trouble reaching proper milage with an Iwata, but with the RP it was no problem. In fact I got the same build with a 1.3 RP as I did a 1.4 W400lv.
I spray a really high solids clear(around 65%) and run mine around 32psi. material wide open and fan closed 1/4 turn. 35 might be a little high.
http://www.kustomkulturelounge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15119&highlight=sata
This is a pretty interesting read if you have a few minutes.
i went though that topic and there is no way the 2 guns are even close in transfer. the 2 times i have used my rp the material consumption was not just a little more than the iwata it was a huge difference. in any case i like the gun and overall it sprays nicer i just find the air consumption and how hard it blows to be completely insane. i guess i just have to get used to it or keep running it at 20psi. :lol1
Jayson pretty much nailed it on the head. Thats really interesting what Jim has to say about the Iwata. The rep is suppose to be stopping by today to drop off his demo again, this time with a fancy new tip that is suppose to make it lay clear down better. It would have to be a pretty fancy tip to dethrone my 3000 :P. I’m going to pay attention to the difference in transfer efficiency too. Man I love trying new gear :woohoo:
I know of guys spraying it around 25 psi Jim. i don’t think it is set in stone you have to use over 30. Hell if it’s working at 20 keep on. If I’m spraying a thinner clear I run mine around 26-27 psi.
Also it took me a little while to get used to it. Once I used it more I can’t put it down now. I can say that it sprays alot better with the material wide open or barely closed. I just adjust my speed. It likes to be close also. I find the Iwata gives a little smoother finish but it looks fatter. The RP finish looks better IMO.
When I first got my RP I was spraying about 32psi, for the year and 1/2 I’ve sprayed 26 – 27 psi. Works great for me
ok, i dont feel so bad now. 25 with that gun is perfectly reasonable. still lays a nice finish without the overkill of air and overspray. what i did notice is that at 30 psi it did give the clear a very oem look. when i shoot the rp with less psi or my iwata i get a thicker coating that flows and lays out a bit better giving a deeper wetter look. the higher psi, around 30 it puts on a thinner more even coat with a nice factory look to it. i found it to shoot nice pretty much wide open on the fan and fluid as well. just need to get used to the differences i guess and wanted to see how you guys were spraying with it. for clear and base i have sprayed nothing but an lph400 for the past 7 years. thanks for all your guys input!!
I just installed regulators on my NR2000 and LPH. Been spraying by brail for so long…
Not sure which SPI clear your spraying Jim but I have sprayed the Euro and I had to run my pressure a little low to get it to wet up. I reduced it 4:1:1. I felt it was way too much reducer for that clear and gun. Probably could have gotten by with half the reducer. The clear I use is very thick and low voc. The gun seems to really shine with a thick clear. My Iwata struggles with it. I use quite a bit less clear with my RP. A bumper only takes me 9 oz, and a front end around 18-20 oz of mixed clear for 1.5 coats.
Let us know what you think of it after some more time behind the trigger. It took me a little while to adjust as I was in the same boat as you. I used Iwata’s for 4-5 years. I still like the Iwata for certain clears, especially if spraying a small job in the shop.
it turned out the problem really was from me, the paint filter that goes between the gun and cup has a long stem that obstructed the fluid needle. to fix it i just cut off the stem. anyone know how to properly install it? the manual that came with the gun is pretty much useless to me since its written in every possible language but english and didnt seem to have a diagram either.
im surprised you guys are saying the RP uses more clear. compared to the Tekna this thing consumes way less clear even though i sprayed 3 coats. but overall the job came out pretty sweet and practically no orange peel.
only thing i really hate myself for doing is buying the aluminum cup. it makes the gun weigh a ton and the lid’s vent keeps getting clogged
Thanks for the input everyone and keep em coming!
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