sata 4000RP issue
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lol. not sure how old this topic is but. ive been painting for 2 years which is nothing cause there is much more to learn. but 5 at once it does matter. applying it at once makes your clear coat not as resistant as it would be with 3 and cut one back leaving 2 which are going to be solid and durable.
How much flash between coats for five? I know if I go up to 3 coats the flash time goes way up. 5 in one shot seems a bit excessive and I’m surprised it doesn’t wind up on the floor of the booth.
I’m sorry to say but Jayson is correct you shoot that much clear in one hit doesn’t matter if you leave a 5 or 10 min flash off time between coats that’s what will happen but I do see your point though ! Also 2.4 bar is a little excessive try dropping it down to 2 bar I know R-M crystal clear you have to spray it at 2.2 bar otherwise major orange peel as I found out !
Kosmoski claims a lot of things for his paint system ,and when they go tits up House Of Kolor blame a lot of things other than their products 😉
i got sick to death of people on forums having drying issues with UC35 and all the so called HOK experts blaming moisture or old activator even after the the guy had said he used a sealed tin
HOK tech sheets say 2 hour bake for UC35 ,i have used the shit and it dont cure out properly so applying five full coats in one hit is playing with fire ,solvent pop is one issue ,heavy texture another ,curing times are dramticaly increased and ultimatly trapped solvent will bite you in the arse weeks or months down the line ,and just because some one did something it does not prove it works long term
also there is a big difference between what you think you saw done and what was actualy going on .five coats ! ,but at what gun settings ? with the fliud turned right down then you may be only achieveing the same mills as with two heavy coats anyway 😉
I have done experiments with 5+ coats of clear.. and it is not good.. in any way shape or form.. it certainly dies back.. the film is gooey even after baking or even after sitting in the sun for days.. and the worst of all is if a substrate is black it will become overheated and will start to disintegrate..
I personally do 2 coats 1st medium wet the 2nd wet.. let it stabilize and evaporate the solvents.. sand it with 2500/3000 lightly and if necessary do a flow coat fast and low.. if not buff to perfect shine..
The film of 5 wet coats is amazingly shiny at the beginning.. but in later stages it will die back and will produce chipping 3 coats is the max i would go..
Besides i do not believe any commercial dvd stuff because they want to sell you the product and waste as much as you can so you can purchase more…
I just bought the same gun recently and there is no need for the your fluid to be fully open try it at only two turns out, works like a dream
That being said.. I usually turn the material knob in about 1 1/2 – 2 turns just to be on the safe side not to cause runs or excessive film build up.. I am not a very very experienced painter and like to take things slow and leave room for screw ups..
[quote=”Kevmcg7″ post=34823]I just bought the same gun recently and there is no need for the your fluid to be fully open try it at only two turns out, works like a dream[/quote]
Sata recommends their guns be run wide open for best results,if thats too muchand you need to turn in the fluid, get a smaller tip. I run my rp’s wide open for clear with no issues :stoned
HOK UK candy and HOK UC35 are both MS urathanes ,the mix ratio is 1part product 1 part hardener and 1 part thinner which makes for a piss thin mix ,Kosmoski never mentions the 2 hour recomended bake cycle for his Urathanes which makes for a very expensive repaint ,i have lost count of the amount of solvent pop and drying issues people have had issues with in regard to HOK urathanes ,of course it is always “pilot error” though 😉
as for Sata guns unlike many other manufacturers the Sata aircaps are matched to tip size hence why Sata recomed full open settings as the fluid and fan size are optimised ,well as long as viscosity is within the scope of that particular tip size ,even with my old RP2000 1.2 i found it did not require any more than 2.1 bar triggered as after that it just produced more overspray mist with no real improvement in atomisation anyway
1.2 is smaller then I would use with the RP, I use a 1.3. Also, compared to using the Iwata you need to be a lot closer to the panel, it atomizes different. With the RP I tend to be about 5 inches away with a pretty quick travel speed. Honestly thought 2 gallons of clear does not seem to be THAT excessive for 5 coats on an overall. Even with block sanding and buffing 5 coats seems to be overkill. My RP lays clear like glass, 2 coats is all I ever do, maybe 3 if you plan to cut and polish just for the extra film build.
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