sata wsb hvlp—-3000 vs 4000
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[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=20315]I have had the chance to use the new 4000 HVLP 1.4. I sparyed two covers in and a bedside in autobase plus, one with my 3000 HVLP 1.3 and the other with the 4000, They sprayed real similar, only the 4000 atomized a toch better and at a lower pressure than my 3000. My clear looked better over the job done with the 4000. I used the 4000 for clear (Pro air) and it is slow but it does a good job. I just cant get my 3000 to spray clear at all so I didnt even try. I used a 3000 RP 1.3 and I thought the 4000 HVLP worked better for me. Still not as good as my LPH400LV4 but the 4000 HLVP is a nice gun.[/quote]
Pro Air almost has to have a 1.4. I never got good results with any 1.3.
I’m with Ryan,pro air,ACIII,and HS+ all work better with a 1.4 compliant/rp spray gun not hvlp.I have had the 4000RP for the last 5 months and it is much different than the 3000rp,the 4000rp lays down a super smooth finish.
On the flip side I have been using a 3000 1.4HC hvlp for the last 2 years with autowave and it worked alright,but I had to work at some of the tougher colrs with silver dollar metallics in them(888EC toner) I have been trying a devilbiss tekna with a 1.4 and I am blown away at how much easier it is to spray those tougher colors.So Ben the regular 1.4 in the 4000hvlp might be better than the 1.4HC,but if you are loving the Tekna why change.I can’t believe how much better it sprays Autowave,and the fan is that much nicer.So Thanks to Ryan for peaking my interest in the tekna,but for clear and single stage it is RP all the way.welcome to the world of the tekna 😉
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20320]I’m with Ryan,pro air,ACIII,and HS+ all work better with a 1.4 compliant/rp spray gun not hvlp.I have had the 4000RP for the last 5 months and it is much different than the 3000rp,the 4000rp lays down a super smooth finish.
On the flip side I have been using a 3000 1.4HC hvlp for the last 2 years with autowave and it worked alright,but I had to work at some of the tougher colrs with silver dollar metallics in them(888EC toner) I have been trying a devilbiss tekna with a 1.4 and I am blown away at how much easier it is to spray those tougher colors.So Ben the regular 1.4 in the 4000hvlp might be better than the 1.4HC,but if you are loving the Tekna why change.I can’t believe how much better it sprays Autowave,and the fan is that much nicer.So Thanks to Ryan for peaking my interest in the tekna,but for clear and single stage it is RP all the way.[/quote]Yeah. I’m just trying the 4000 for shits and giggles. The Tekna is at least just as good or better. The Tekna seems to have a wider or more even fan and is a little easier to control the difficult metallics.
I did a gold front end with the Tekna a little bit ago, and so I am trying to decide how they compare since I just did a gold front end with the 4000.
Glad to hear the Tekna is working good for you too Jayson. What PSI are you using? I go 24 PSI and 19 for drop coat. That drop coat just makes the metallics lay so damn nice/blend out flawlessly.
What caps you guys using for the teknas? The hvlp or compliant? The 7e7 is the compliant right?
Yes the 7e7 cap is the one to use and it is the compliant air-cap.
So are you guys using the tekna for clear also? We spray Pro Air but should be going to ACIII when we get heat on the booth. My LPH400 works good but I would like to try the tekna or a W400LV or even the 4000RP when its avalable here. I just use a 3000 or 2000 HVLP since its still solvent base. One problen I get with the pro air is that it dry sprays with a slow hvlp. I need a little more speed out of the gun.
I just started using the tekna 1.4 with a 7E7 compliant cap for autowave basecoat only.I have all three Rp models to chose from,so that is what I use for clear,mainly the 4000rp.Proair is a low solids fast air dry clear,if you use a hvlp with a 1.3 it will overatomize it and you will be left with a thin film build that dries too fast.When I used it(not available here anymore) I would shoot it with my first gen rp with a 1.4 at about 24-25psi and it worked fine for me.You can put in about 5-10% slow or extra slow reducer to help sprayability when it is hot.Sikkens clears like to have airflow for about 20 mins minimum,so keep your booth running after you are done spraying.If I was back spraying autobase plus I would use ACIII for the quick jobs or HS+ for completes or larger jobs,it has a much nicer look to it.Like I said in previous posts sikkens likes a larger fluid tip(1.4rp or compliant)to work the best.
I spray ppg products and use a tekna with 7e7 cap for clear at this point also.. it will lay the clear down nice. but is slower then a RP for clearing but is faster then an hvlp for clearing..
So the tekna with the 7e7 cap also works great for spraying base also? I’m spraying solvent. I have a 1.3 lph with the orange cap and you have to work for it with alot of metallics.
What people havent said about the difference between the guns is 2 things the 4000 weighs less so less fatigue, the 4000 has the air horns opened up so you dont have to be as close to the panel as your supposed to be with the 3000 I have sprayed both and I will be buying a 4000 when I can get rid of my 2 3000’s
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