Satin/Matte Black Inquiry
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Hey fellow paint sniffers!
I’m going to be painting my brother’s car soon and he’s been eyeballing the color matte/satin black. I’m not sure if those are the same colors that people have different terms for… but he wants it somewhat flat with a minimal amount of sheen to it. I’ve linked some pictures as reference below. I’m set up on a PPG system, so hopefully someone in here that has the experience with the same system that I use can help me.
What I need to know is if there’s a specific base coat and “flat” clear coat that PPG makes and how it should be applied as well as any special additives or agents that are required in a matte/satin finish. Another question is, to my understanding, matte/satin finishes have a “flat” clear applied on top of the base… even though the clear is flat, does that mean compounding and wetsanding is out of the question? I need to know what this means in the long term for maintenance because his car will be a daily driver and parked outside.
Anyhow, thats pretty much it. If I missed something, you’re all welcome to critique me on it. :huh:
[b]Kudos,[/b]
Jay[img]http://francismai.com/cars/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Matte_Black_Mercedes_SLR_722_4209_20070626.jpg[/img]
[img]http://files.brandflakesforbreakfast.com/images/lexus_matte_black.jpg[/img]
[img]http://ilovesubstance.com/images/cars/flat_black/599-GTB-Fiorano-Ferrari_2.jpg[/img]
July 11, 2011 at 8:10 pm #31645there is no sanding and buffing. what you got is it. there is no fixing anything. if he scratches it its done. on a positive note if you do get a dust spec or he lightly scratches it, its much less noticable in a dull finish. you can use a flat clear or a flat black single stage. most paint companies have flat black ss. not sure what ppg’s is. a flat black ss will look blacker where as a cleared finish will have a greyer appearance. sem makes an excellent flat black. called hot rod black. the sheen matches the first picture exactly. its really durable stuff as well. basf has sc804. nice, expensive but no different from the sem stuff at 1/3 the cost.
these guys have made some good points.
if you haven’t sprayed matte paints before, make sure to practice first. As jim mentioned, it is not forgiving at all, any dry edges, overspray, uneven passes, etc. will show and you will not be able to correct this without repainting. Make sure the product you select is slow enough that you can paint the whole car without issues. If the paint flashes too fast it will probably be nasty.
I agree with jim that SS is probably the best choice. Also, either way you go, you will probably find the matte top coat to stay tacky longer (even if it is baked) so allow a few days before reassembly if possible.
July 12, 2011 at 7:51 am #31662Sikkens rally black or utech 200 urethane mixed with 100% flatening agent,2 laps around the car and you are done vs 2-3 coats of base plus 2 coats of flat clear…work smart not hard :weights
July 12, 2011 at 3:09 pm #31674x2 on the rally black. Don’t know what I am going to do when/if they stop producing it…..I don’t know if they’ve included that with discontinuing their autocryl line. Best SS mat product I’ve used…..but haven’t tried the SEM. Rally just has that right gloss level….not too flat, not too shiny.
July 14, 2011 at 5:02 am #31726[quote=”Jayson M” post=21240]Sikkens rally black or utech 200 urethane mixed with 100% flatening agent,2 laps around the car and you are done vs 2-3 coats of base plus 2 coats of flat clear…work smart not hard :weights[/quote]
I use UTech 2000 for painting the scientific instruments that I make…its awesome. I shoot 2 coats of epoxy (black) then the UTech 2000 as Jayson has described. It’s NIGHT – which is what I need. Durable too.
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