“Sealer”???
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I’m from Europe (Netherlands) and we are not familiar (well at least i am not) with the product “sealer”.
I can’t buy “sealer” here in the shops.What do you guys mean with this product? Is it just a 2K primersurfacer or epoxy primer or?
(If i paint bare metal this is how i do it: first a wash primer or epoxy primer, then a 2K primersurfacer, then colorcoats. No “sealer” somewhere in between)
I’m from the UK.
We don’t call it sealer (nor do we use it much) but instead know it as wet on wet primer, or non-sanding primer. Basically a thinned down (/ over reduced) primer that is coloured over without sanding before it is fully cured.
Andy T just about nailed it. Sealer is a low build primer that sprays smooth. We use it over primed areas that were cut through during the blocking process. It will cover a 320 scratch, and is ready to topcoat after it flashes. I actually use sealer a lot, especially on larger repairs. I block the primer with 320, buzz a DA with 500grit over the repair area, then seal and apply topcoats. It’s also used over bumpers and OEM panels. It eliminates the need to sand peel out of primer before topcoating on something you know is straight- like an OE panel. You sand the e-coat/primer, then apply sealer before topcoating. It gives some extra film build, and helps reduce sandscratch swelling incase you didn’t feather your primer out well enough for topcoating. Also. a lot of shops here only carry primer in grey but have sealers in white-black, so with the right shade sealer it makes topcoats cover in less coats.
Thanx for the answers.
How much reducer is usually added to a 2K primer to make it non-sanding, 50% to the mix?
Not all primers can be thinned down to use as a sealer – check the data sheet.
I imagine you can get Mipa products easily in Holland as you are nearer Germany? They do a transparant sealer which is good.
I use ACME Finish1 FP450 2K Primer, in the data sheet is nothing mentioned about using it as a non sanding primer. Just the standard 4:1:0.5 mixation (4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 0.5 part reducer) for use as a sanding primer.
What could go wrong if i simply add more than the “0.5” amount of reducer to make it a non sanding primer?
Sealers are made for wet on wet application, they retain adhesion without being scuffed for whatever time frame the TDS says. Over reducing a 2k primer may make it lay flat enough for wet on wet, but you may get poor adhesion if it’s not scuffed after it flashes. How do you go about painting new parts with no sealer in your system? Do you actually prime and sand OEM parts? Sealer is great for e-coated parts. Just scuff, shoot sealer, then topcoat. No sanding. A lot of sealers will actually have adhesion to unscuffed e-coat. I always atleast degloss the edges just to be safe. But Sikkens for example you can just clean, seal, topcoat. No sanded needed what so ever on e-coat.
[quote=”sage” post=35093]How do you go about painting new parts with no sealer in your system? Do you actually prime and sand OEM parts?
[/quote]I do mainly restauration and painting vintage motorcycle parts, i have never painted new parts.
Well i did once a new motorcycle fender and sprayed it wet-in-wet with the ACME 2K primer i mentioned earlier but without overreducing it. And that went well. It hadn’t be perfect flat because it was a solid color and i would end with lots of clear and a cut&buff anyway.Sealer is great in a production setting where time is money, its great for new parts and excellent hold out on half ass bodywork for some guys.
as some guys already mentioned, not all 2k primers can be used as a sealer. in general a primer that can be used that way will have much finer ground fillers and pigment so they spray smoother. some primer will also have a tendency to shrink up when used wet and wet when they were not designed to do so. there are some sealers that spray like a primer while there are others that spray more like a clearcoat and are glossy. i believe rm’s dp31 is like this. i am not a fan of this type but might work great for production shops. depends on you but all in all i like sealers. better adhesion and a nice even surface to base on. on the custom side of things its not really optional. you have to use it when doing candy jobs etc because if your primer is sanded too thin over top of filler work then the filler can suck they dye right out of the binder.
[quote=”richie00boy” post=35076]Not all primers can be thinned down to use as a sealer – check the data sheet.
I imagine you can get Mipa products easily in Holland as you are nearer Germany? They do a transparant sealer which is good.[/quote]
You say they do a transparent sealer mate does this help with colours that don’t cover easily at all ?
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