sealing overtop of polyester primer
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[quote=”jim” post=33399]I understand that evercoat (slick sand) says that it can be directly topcoated over, but however me being in a Standox waranty aproved shop, My waranty would be void in doing this, since it is not a recomended substrate. I am surprised that this is a common practice and you guys are having good success with it. I use Slick sand and Feather fill on all my restos but always spray a 2k primer over it for finish sanding.[/quote]
Thats the way it should be done Jim :cheers
Probably should be done that way, but we are painting right on top of it and no problems SO FAR. In fact I have to do the seam sealer on it tomorrow, then another day to wetsand, and I will be spraying a 67 GTO Hardtop (7th GTO this year). Just about ready to seam seal a 69 Chevelle vert, wetsand, and it will be ready for paint too. Things are moving right along. The 69 Daytona bottom was blasted today and I got it in DP, tomorrow the tub gets blasted, and bodywork will be underway on it.
Whats your point?This topic has been beat to death,many experienced guys have expressed their opinions on NOT basing right over it.It could take up to 5-10 years or 6 months until you see issues,you never know.
I understand that, but not one of them has done it. And im right with you, I dont want to do it, but I have to there. If nothing else it is a simple waste of time. Just stating, we do it, and so far its working great. Most of our work is repeat buisness, so far there must not be any complaints.
Jayson, thanks for the push. I just got the go ahead to spray some 2k on this gto before paint. Big rush now because in was planning to paint it Saturday and now there is another step, so I’m hoping I can spray the 2k over the 220 slick sand and go right to 400 wet.
Hope it saves you some time,you should be fine with 400 wet as long as you seal before paint.I wouldn’t use dbc over 400,you will see scratches.
I forgot that I had already spray bomb guide coated the 220’d Slick sand (just the tub). So i went ahead and wet sanded it with 400. Will spray the K36 on that and probably 400 that as well. And I will be sanding to 600 before painting this one. I really dont want to seal it if I dont have to.
I cant go right to 600 after the K36 can I? Would it be better to reduce the K36 4:1:1?
man you are a sucker for punishment,if you already have it sanded to 400 just seal and paint.Not sure why so many people think sealer is bad,if you think it is going to add more texture to your job its not,todays sealers go on super thin and texture free.But hey if you want to sand that car 3 more times knock your self out :p
Yeah I was thinking about that too. I have a couple small break throughs (couple edges). Will the sealer be ok over them? Or should I blow a little spray bomb epoxy on them first?
I don’t see why not…..Im not sure what you are going to use for a sealer,the last time I used a ppg sealer it was k36 mixed as one.I wouldn’t use any of the dplf epoxies as a sealer,they kind of suck and you will get dieback.
Ok thanks. Im glad you mentioned it because I asked about it today and they recommended DPLF. I will read the tech sheet and see how to mix the K36 as a sealer. I assume just add reducer.
I do not like sealer, I only use it on bumpers but that is just me. Jayson when you spray sealer on a complete do you not get sealer spray in the jambs, deep into the foam tape that the base does not cover? I still feel I get a cleaner tighter job without sealer, but that could be just because I dont use sealer as much as some of you guys.
I have only used sealer a couple of times, but as was mentioned, it didnt seem as flat as sanded primer to me. Seemed like it had just a bit of texture to it.
Sikkens colorbuild works fine for me,it is too much work to make your primer perfect with no burn thrus with 600.Sealer creep does suck but they all do it,I never had good luck with 3m foam tape it always leaves residue behind.I have had good luck with transition tape using two strips and removing one right after sealer which allows the base and clear to go in further.It really depends what end result you are after,the best way is to paint in pieces for no paint lines.
What are people doing that they can’t get sealer to lay flat? Laying down is inherent in it’s design. As far as sealer showing in jambs, just double tape like Jayson says.
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