Sealing the insides of new parts
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Does anyone apply sealers over the inside of new parts when edging? I usually apply a singlestage right over the e-coat on the underside, am I a hack or is this the norm?
cough cough hack hack:laugh: probably won’t matter as the insides don’t see any sun or road hazards. alot of shops i know just scuff and shoot the color. I usually seal because the new sealers can be shot over unsanded ecoat and who likes scuffing the inside of parts. I do however hit them quick still with a scuff pad but I don’t go crazy.
(I take a red scotch pad to em first) I find the direct to e-coat sealer to expensive to be used for cut-ins. BASF’s anyhow.
scuff seal shoot just a habit but a good one
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote](I take a red scotch pad to em first) I find the direct to e-coat sealer to expensive to be used for cut-ins. BASF’s anyhow.[/quote]
Ya but how much are you really using on the jambs. plus you could hang em up and seal the whole part at onceWhen I’m painting the part complete off the vehicle I’ll seal the whole thing inside/out. In the case of say a hood where it ties up the booth for an extra 15 minutes, I’m wondering if its necessary or even recommended by paint companies.
Considering a ton of vehicles come OEM with half the underside not even painted, I see a bunch of GM’s that don’t get paint under the padding of the hood. Only paint where you can see.
(BTW: we don’t have a hood rotisserie unfortunately)
i wouldn’t seal the whole part unless It’s gonna be shot of the car.standox sealer only has a limited time before you would have to sand and reapply same as dupont and basf. standox has a very nice 1k sealer for small areas that is ready to spray and it is not in a rattle can:laugh: .if im doing a hood ill seal it and the fenders or what not. I used to just scuff and spray but coverage sucked and sealer is way cheaper than tint.I try to lead by example with the other techs so they don’t cut corners.
I’m just gonna go ahead and highjack my own thread, MG can you tell me a bit more about this 1k sealer. water or solvent borne, recommended on new parts???
solvent sealer and works great on oem coating including bumpers as long as they are primed.they also have a 1k raw plastic bumper primer prep it as usual spray seal paint. it is more user friendly than 2330s and 2360s dupont. which i do use occasionally but it is a personal choice. I will use the 2330 to wipe it down then the standox 1k
Ill get you some product numbers they are kinda long
i seal everything>>>….but on hoods i always seal the outside first then flip em over a couple hrs later an do the backside fenders i seal an edge in one step i never seal anything when im doing my final color an paintwork as its al been sealed already i just go over it with 800 an a scuff pad when im prepping for my blends i have had really good results doing it this way an it cuts down on having ta mask things as tight for the sealer an such make any sense???
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