Sherwill awp protrusion problems?
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Hey we have been having some issues with awp base mainly in darker colors, it seems like the darker colors are extremely dirty. dark blues, reds, blacks solids, pearls and metallic. our reps don’t seem to know what the problem is but they say we aren’t the only sherwill shop having this problem. its to the point where we have to polish all our dark colors and sher will is actually paying us to polish these cars. weve tried changing out a bunch of our suspicious toners and what not but and changing reducers. just wondering if anyone else has any suggestions
Thanks
You could try to switch to a finer strainer 125micron vs regular 190micron and use 2-3 strainers at a time to get rid of the trash.Are you in a cold climate?It could be possible that some of the toners or binders could have been frozen in transport to your shop.
I assume you mean AWX Performance Plus, as I know exactly what you are talking about. The problem lies with the 310 Black toner that’s used in the dark colours.
SW recommends the 190 micron strainer (the finer 125 commonly used with waterbourne may affect metallic/pearl colours).
As Jayson said, double straining can help. If I recall, you are on the coast, so you probably deal with much more humidity than we do here. Is there any chance you guys can try using the 030 reducer rather than the 020? It will slow it down, but does help.
What gun(s) and setup are you using, what pressures are you spraying for your coverage and control coats? Minimizing any dry spray is an absolute must!
If you are slightly generous with your clear coat, you can almost alway burry the grit. The HPC21 is piss thin, and the 751 and 755 clears aren’t much thicker. The 757 has a much higher solids content and might work better, if you are struggling to get proper mil build with the other clears.
Once I got use to the paint, I didn’t have much issue with the grit, but you must work it to make it successful…
I was told a while ago that SW believes that the 310 black doesn’t react well with the 0700 metallic/pearl additive. They may come out with a new black toner to be used in metallics/pearl colours.
Have you guys done the AWX Performance Plus application training? Who is your tech rep, Reg from Vancouver? Let me know if there is anymore I can help with.
We also believe it is the 310, We have had it replaced several times without any change
we have tried using 020 and 030 with the same protrusion result.
I personally use tecknas with 1.2 tips in them for base and I do my drop coats at 12-15 psi, I have tried using my 4000 rp but I prefer the tecknas, the other painter uses a 4000 hvlp and 3000 hvlp and a supernova all with the same results
I was unaware about the 310 and 700 not reacting well together,
we kept thinking it had something to do with the pearls or metallic but just this last Friday we painted a solid black audi a4 paint code l041 which is just strait 310 and reducer and it was extremely grity requiring us to pretty much completely polish anywhere that there is basecoat on the car :S
we mainly use 757 clear but we leave out about a 3rd of the es55 reducer as we have had problem with the clear curing fast enough
we have also been using sickens 250 and energy pro which helps cause they have more build
yes Reg is the tech we also have Gerry from Van as well.
It sounds like you guys have started going about this in a positive manner.
What air cap are you using in your Tekna? The 7e7 works very well. Otherwise, it sounds like its set up properly. Are you spraying medium-wet coats? Making sure there are no dry areas?
What type of booth are you spraying in, how well does it dry the base and bake the clear?
For the clear, I know what you mean about the 757 curing slow. It’s a production clear and is slower to cure than the slow 755 clear.
Maybe a solution with the clear would be to go with the 755 and hpc21 clears. Yes they are thinner, but they will dry much faster. You could apply 3 thinner coats and get better build and dry times too. If the 755 is too slow you can mix in some hpc21 (like adding an accelerator). Mix 20-30 parts HPC21 to 80-70parts 755. Then take this combo and mix it 4:1:1 as usual with uh900 an es55).
Don’t forget to start double staring all your jobs that use 310!!!
I use the 7E7 on both my guns spraying medium wet coats
We spray in a semi-down with a side exit, air make up with a califonia pulse set up which speeds up the flash time on the base
it seems to dry everything pretty good although it does ake while to get up to 140 surface tempwe do cocktail the hpc21 and 755 but normally only when spraying in our old cross flow
Today we got a new shipment of 310 so we threw the old one out, there was less the 1/4 can left and i sprayed a vw golf front clip hood bumper blend fenders, the code was lc9x a pearl black with alot of 310, some 415 , 433 blue pearl and 700 and i used 020 with a little bit of 030 mixed in and it came out great, 2 coats of 757 and there is like 3 nibs in the job 😀
so im guessing they have been sending us some bad 310s the last couple of months that could have been getting to cold during shipping or something, hopefully this is the problem,
I’ll post again later this week and let you guys know how the jobs are turning out.
Tyler
Glad to hear the new batch seems better. I know that I have gotten some cans of 310 that are way worse than others. Do you ever look at the production dates on the cans? I think they have or had an issue with proper inventory rotation, because I would get a 310 in and use it, then the next one could be a batch that is 6+months older than the last one. May also be consistency issues with certain batches and/or freezing in transit.
Good luck with the rest of it!
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