Show car paint finish – different to normal?
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- This topic has 23 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 10 months ago by paul.
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[quote=”davyp1″ post=25710]If ya contact Mo Ryan on vagdrivers he would give ya his number, he is the fella who owns the blue mark2 golf.[/quote]
Will do. Might see can I get a look at his golf before I call paddy about it, or even drop in on the way home from Dublin some day.
March 23, 2012 at 8:21 am #36471[quote=”krjrcustom1″ post=25735]Cant imagine Irish paint is that different than Iowa paint..[/quote]
Oh you’ll be surprised.
There are a ton of things that individuals ignore and some of the most innocent things take a lot of work. Car paint, for example, has to undergo a lot of screening before it can get put on a car. Car paint testing involves exposing shades of paint to years of intense climate conditions to see if it can stand up. Article source: [url=http://www.cardealexpert.com/]Car Paint Testing[/url].
March 1, 2014 at 6:43 am #46010I have done many old cars that way,if done right they look better than a cut n buff IMO.I don’t follow the flow coat rules,I like to use 2 nice wet coats of clear.Black single stage also looks very nice when its done that way(wet sand with 600 and 2 fat coats of clear) :cheers
the body work has to be a lot straighter on restorations and the clear has to be put on thicker cause you need to sand off more orange peel . On production jobs I use 2 coats of clear and try to sand to match factory clear orange peel. When I do restorations it’s 3 coats and I hard block the clearcoat and sand off more clear than I would with a production job. A flow coat as Jayson mentioned is good for urethane wave and getting it extra sharp, but just hardblocking the clear with your initial sanding will help that too. With good body techs the urethane wobble should be the only thing left in that stage that’s imperfect, but this also depends on the type of money the customer is paying.
high quality materials are essential ,I always double laka a show job even three or four seperate sessions when burying graphics ,the first clear session usually dies back due to the blotting action of the basecoat ,the second will hold a superior gloss ,with heavy metal flake jobs you can be into at least four sessions with weeks between sessions to allow full cure and the product to shrink back properly prior to final coating
over the years i have learnt not to exceed 3 coats in any one session when using high solids 2K ,i find most modern 2K clears unlike old single pack lacquers will not tolerate excessive build in a single session ,gone are the days of twenty thirty plus coats of laka
Paul
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