Single Stage Paint Repair Help
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I don’t spray much single stage so I am not sure what is the best way to handle this repair.
Obviously this is caused by the clumsy idiot doing the painting (that would be me) by bumping the paint with the air hose.
Also, what can I do to get this paint to lay flatter? It is Hot Rod Flatz Urethane and I mixed it 4:1:1/2 (reducer). LPH400 1.4 tip, 16 psi at the gun, fluid out 2 turns.
Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.
JimThe second coat of paint is fresh in this picture.
[IMG]http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/1965%20Buick%20Special%20Convertible/P1010015.jpg[/IMG]What temp reducer are you using?
If it was me,,,,I would run the pressure up some, and run the fluid adjustment all the way out……………..(Your starving the gun)
Using the slow reducer 85 degree.
bump the pressure up to like 21-24
Alright I give that a try.
I just started using the LPH400 and the instructions say that 16 psi gives me 10 at the cap. They also say to keep the fluid control set to a minimum level. This is what I was trying to accomplish.
Normally I set the fluid control 1 turn in from wide open and then adjust the psi to get the spray pattern right. Does anyone actually use the LPH400 at 16 psi?Yes I have used mine at 16 psi with good results.
Open the material up. Depending on your air supply you may need a few more psi. Also most gun regulators are not that accurate. Unless you have an air cap test gauge you really don’t know what psi your running. I have tested that gun with regulators and to get 10 psi at the cap it went from 13-21 psi with different regulators.
Adjust the pressure by the results your getting. Open the material up.
You want to lay Single stage a lot like you are Clear, (What you see is what you get) So you want to lay it on wet, but just wet enough that it doesn’t run on you.
Up the pressure a little for better atomization (For getting even metallic distribution) as well as more fluid movement.
The lower pressure is fine for Clears, because you’re not too worried about atomizing clear coat all that much.
Single stage is quite thick, so you’ll want to run it as far open as you can.
I always adjust my fluid needle as far out as possible before I start adjusting my Gun speed.
If your fluid is all the way out, and you’re still getting the dry spray, slow your gun speed down.If it starts getting too wet, that is when you either crank your fluid in, or speed up gun speed.
Basically speed is key when doing this, the last thing you want is to finish shooting only to find the first panel you shot covered in heavy dry spray.
As far as the repair. It looks too large to bury, so your only option is going to be to let it setup, hit it with 600-800 and shoot er’ again…
Thanks for the replies.
I’ll sand and re-shoot it tomorrow.
Open the fluid and up the air pressure on the gun.You said,,,,”Using the slow reducer 85 degree”
Whats you air temp? Around 80-85?
If its in the mid 80’s you need to go to a hotter reducer for an all over.Temps here have been in the low 90s for a few weeks now. I normally paint in the morning hours so anywhere from 75 to 80 degrees.
Thanks for the help.LPH-400LVs dont like to be running much higher than 20psi at the gun…actually, it works best at 14 to 18psi…
Too much pressure ant its out of its designed parameters…
Adjustments:
16 psi at the handle with the trigger fully depressed while shooting paint…important…don’t adjust it dry and always trigger opened…
Close the fluid completely (the handle does not depress anymore) then…open the fluid tip 2 and 1/2 turns from closed, that’s close to the sweet spot for clear and single stage urethane…
Shoot the pattern on a scrap paper and adjust the fan to full open…then close the fan knob slightly until you see the widht of the fan close a little…this removes the edge and creates a cleaner pattern…
You are ready to shoot…
One trick is to speed up your passes but make more passes…and look at the surface as you spray…when the surface is just about to become wet move on…think of it as wetting the surface with a fine mist gradually…
With high pressure and fluid knob wide opened it will become a hose and not atomize very well…you will get alot of texture. This is a fantastic gun you have, experiment with it and you will see it likes low pressures more than high ones…I spray single and clear like glass with mine…
Ideal tip size is 1.3…1.4 will do also but reduce the material output with the bigger nozzle…Oh, and one more thing…you should have the silver cap on…the orange and purple caps are for basecoat only…
Hope this helps…
Super! Just what I was looking for. I will be spraying some SPI MS clear today so I’ll try playing around a little with the pressure. Most guys seem to go 10 psi higher than what you are suggesting so it will be interesting to see if I can get it dialed in.
Clears a whole different story for me, I run that gun right around 16-19 psi. Clear doesn’t need to be greatly atomized, in fact it’s easier to get a visual lay down of it if it isn’t atomizing like crazy. (Because from the start it lays with more texture.)
I have the LV cap which doesn’t atomize the higher viscosity of Single Stage all that well.
So I crank it up a little to get better atomization on metallics. (Metallics isn’t really what the LV air cap is designed for.)I have the LV cap and shot my last round of clear at 25 psi based upon some posts I had read. Really put a cloud in the air for sure.
Tried using the lower pressure settings and dialing in the gun. Had some problems getting the base to go on without looking striped. Used 50% over lap, gun about 4″ from surface, 16 psi but as it began to flash the overlapped areas looked and stayed darker.
Backed the fluid out another 1 1/2 turns and tried again thinking it was spraying too dry but it did not seem to help that much. Bumped the pressure to 18 psi and it started to look better but now I am at the top range (if gauge is right) of the gun.Here’s the clear coat at 3 1/2 turns on the fluid, 18 psi at the gun. Added 2 oz of SPI 885 to the last coat but still ended up with some orange peel.
[IMG]http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/jimjokjv/1965%20Buick%20Special%20Convertible/TrunkLid-ColorandClear1.jpg[/IMG]I am thinking now I should have added reducer to each coat instead of just the last.
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