smoking/tinting taillights with waterbourne

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  • January 1, 2013 at 12:16 am #40094

    so i know tinting taillights with solvent you mix black or whatever color you want into the clear. how would you go about doing it with waterbourne?

    January 1, 2013 at 12:30 am #40095

    That could be tricky,I don’t think you could tint the clear with a waterborne toner.You would have to use a transparent base (sikkens clear binder 666) tint with 245 black, then clear coat it,definately more of a pain.You could get some black single stage or a black candy and tint the clear.Thats the route I would go…

    January 1, 2013 at 1:43 pm #40099

    I’ve done a few the way Jason mentions, putting a bit of black tinter in a clear base. It does the job, but I think a candy would give a much more even effect.

    January 2, 2013 at 11:30 pm #40117

    you are asking for a fail with waterbased binders plus the added difficulty with aplication

    i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job

    one way is to extend black single stage with clear untill you achieve the transparancy you require ,candy tends to fade where pigment is far more lightfast
    Paul

    January 3, 2013 at 3:46 am #40120

    [quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]you are asking for a fail with waterbased binders plus the added difficulty with aplication

    i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job

    one way is to extend black single stage with clear untill you achieve the transparancy you require ,candy tends to fade where pigment is far more lightfast
    Paul[/quote]

    Thats why I said tint your clear with single stage,or candy,5grams of black SS per half pint of RTS clear is all you need.

    January 3, 2013 at 3:48 am #40121

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=29108][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]you are asking for a fail with waterbased binders plus the added difficulty with aplication

    i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job

    one way is to extend black single stage with clear untill you achieve the transparancy you require ,candy tends to fade where pigment is far more lightfast
    Paul[/quote]

    Thats why I said tint your clear with single stage,or candy,5grams of black per half pint of RTS clear is all you need.[/quote]

    January 3, 2013 at 11:10 pm #40123

    [quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job[/quote]

    Maybe the OP doesn’t have a choice. Certainly when I was in a compliant bodyshop it was water or nothing 🙂

    January 4, 2013 at 5:26 pm #40143

    [quote=”Andy T” post=29111][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job[/quote]

    Maybe the OP doesn’t have a choice. Certainly when I was in a compliant bodyshop it was water or nothing :)[/quote]

    correct me if im wrong but compliancy doese not automaticaly require water ,the rule is VOC compliance not an insistance on waterbased ,just becouse manufacturers decided to use waterbased in order to comply was not a compulsary decision and many companies now have compliant solvent systems with VOC reading even lower than waterbourne systems

    that apart we are talking tinted clearcoat aplications and as far im aware there is also no requirment for clears to be waterbased

    the main issue if a waterbourne basecoat was used would be that of adhesion to plastic as waterbourne requires a physical adhesion so would require the plastic to be sanded which would in the case of clear or transparant plastics create a hazey finish and still have adhesion issues ,as far as i am aware there is not a viable adhesion promoter to allow waterbourne to aplied indirectly to a plastic surface ,if used without any scratch or a suitable adhesion promoter the waterbourne would simply peel off ,thus choice is severly limited imo

    Paul

    Anonymous
    January 4, 2013 at 6:56 pm #40145

    i cant imagine why basf’s toners wouldnt work. my understanding is they are in solvent form until mixed with other waterbased products. You can use them to tint sealers, i dont see why adding a few drops into clear would be a problem. That would include RM Onyx and Glasurit 90 line. The other ideas mentioned are good as well.

    January 5, 2013 at 12:26 am #40147

    [quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29131]

    correct me if im wrong but compliancy doese not automaticaly require water ,[/quote]

    A pedantic point I think Paul, but I’m happy to correct what I said because of it:

    [b]Maybe the OP doesn’t have a choice. I’ve worked in a few bodyshops where it was waterbourne colour or nothing.[/b]

    I don’t disagree that solvent would probably be the better choice, but one has to work with the products one has to hand sometimes and I have used a tinted clear waterbourne basecoat more than once without issue.

    January 5, 2013 at 3:04 am #40156

    Nobody actually suggested mixing waterborne base tints in with 2k clear. Both Andy and Jay said tint clear basecoat with black tint, then 2k clear over that

    January 9, 2013 at 3:27 am #40229

    Yea we are a waterborne shop and just asking to see if could be done. Onyx has a base mixng clear called hb100 used mostly for pearls that I guess you could mix some black toner in, throw that as base then clear it.. But it seems it would be easier to just order a little black solvent to mix in the clear coat. Thanks for the help

    January 9, 2013 at 6:00 am #40232

    just some other options to consider, if spraying them with water is that difficult.
    People are having great results tinting lights with window film.
    There are also companies that make aerosols designed specifically for tinting lights, some of them work better than others, but it’s always an option if using your water isn’t.

    January 24, 2013 at 7:04 am #40551

    couldn’t you just clear them to coat the plastic, then scuff the clear and make a tri-stage like midcoat using a trace black or even regular black tinter and binder in the water system he has then re-clear them????

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