Solvent Pop
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I’ve got a quick question regarding solvent pop. I’ve never had an issue before (limited experience of course :kofee ), but I had this problem over the weekend when painting an engine block. It’s been ground smooth and primed with epoxy (2 wet coats) then hit it with URKI SS which is a new product for me. I was told that it was a 2:1 mixing ratio with no reducer. Seemed pretty thick so I got out the Iwata LPH-400 (could have used my RP, but that seemed like overkill). Anyway, first coat layed with quite a bit of texture (spraying around 20 psi at inlet, 1.3 tip and silver cap). It seemed to take forever to flash, second coat was around 1 hour and full wet. Even over-night it’s still only just dry! Using universal hardener (as recommended). I’ve got light solvent pop.
I’m pretty sure I don’t care, it’s just an engine and you have to be close to see it. I’m just wondering if I should have got some accelerator or mixed in a little reducer (say 10%) so that It wasn’t a too much, too soon problem.
Any future issues? Should I buff it and re-shoot? Buffing really doesn’t float my boat due to the complexities of the casting.
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/242/IMG_20140720_145734_zps70889e55.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/242/IMG_20140720_145734_zps70889e55.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Craig
I just noticed this was posted in the wrong section – could one of the Mods move it to the paint section?
From my limited use of urki its not that great of a product.You were given bad info from the store,a solid color should be reduced 10% metallic 15%.It is quite thick and slow to dry,I’m not that impressed with it.I wonder how long you waited in between coats of epoxy and how much flash did you give it?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=35533]From my limited use of urki its not that great of a product.You were given bad info from the store,a solid color should be reduced 10% metallic 15%.It is quite thick and slow to dry,I’m not that impressed with it.I wonder how long you waited in between coats of epoxy and how much flash did you give it?[/quote]
I was in at Off-Shore today and they didn’t know much. They took the paint back and we’re going to test it together tomorrow. I let the epoxy flash for 20 minutes and let it sit for 24 hours before top coating (with a light scuff). This, I think is OK for the ProForm stuff. Right?
You should be ok,thats enough flash time for the epoxy,I never cared for the low voc proform epoxy,low end product but it should work for you.Between you an me they don’t really know much about the system,basically here ya go and you have to learn on the fly.I would think that without reducer in it and 2 quick coats it skinned over and the solvents were trapped=solvent pop.I think the stuff needs 15-20%reducer to spray properly.Why the hell they give you universal hardener makes me shake my head :deadhorse Your using 3 different products paint ,hardener and epoxy and then they wonder why you have problems,bad advice is not your fault.
Ya – the changing product lines is so difficult for a garage guy to keep up with. The last three things I’ve painted have all gone different systems. As I’m starting to roll up some of the fabrication on my car, what would you suggest for epoxy primer? As usual, I don’t care much about price, I’m just doing one car at a time and it’s my car…so why paint it with cheap products. I’ve done this and not been very pleased. What would you use if you were doing your car again?
I’ll report back with what we discover this afternoon.
So I did change two variables: I bought a new can of the universal hardener (I know – but it’s just a little bit of this stuff) and added 10 % reducer and I changed out my fluid tip to a 1.4. Adding the 10% was like night and day for this product. It was evident even while mixing that it was significantly thinner. I sanded the block and put down two wet coats, which sprayed normally and the finish is great. I’m thinking the 1.3 tip didn’t make that much difference, but boy that reducer sure did. It’s drying more normally (it seems slower than other SS products I’ve used) and is dust free in about 40 min.
Well Im glad you have it sorted out,for the life of me why don’t they just pour some of the proper hardener out for you or send you to a shop that has some???? IMHO if this is something that you care about they should at least give you matching products.OK rant over :p I used some of the single stage the other day underneath a new hood ,I could still finger print it after 6hrs and that was with fast hardener and accelerator.They are sorely mistaken if they think this system is going to replace utech.
I know – I have a friend that’s working on a car and they mixed him up some single stage (sold him the hardener and a new gun) and sent him on his way. I checked it tonight and he had the same story – thick as heck and could get it to flow. He’s a first time painter, so he’ll have to sand it off and do it again. Nice.
So when I’m doing the real thing, what system do you recommend? I’d like to stay in one paint line from the metal up. Price isn’t a big deal – not planning on painting until next summer.
It really depends where you are going to paint it and if you do it yourself and what color,bc/cc or single stage.If you are going to do it in your garage I don’t really know what to tell you as WB could be a big struggle for you.I have been talking with my Axalta rep about demoing their mosaic low voc solvent base coat and clear for a friends 68 chevelle,thats a couple months away but we will see.I am very happy with Sikkens that is on my chevelle,looks like the day I sprayed it and would use it again.
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