Solvent pops
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Ok, so I repainted the Chevelle after it sat for a couple weeks with no mottling but it got solvent pops only on the fenders. Can I scuff and reclear over the pops or do I need to block reprime and reshoot them?
If the solvent pop is minor enough, and you have enough clear to work with, then you could sand and reclear.
If it’s too deep, you could have it show in the reclear, or you may burn through when trying to sand it out.
If I burn through to clear can I just spot sealer on the burn throughs then recolor and clear?
And I was curious what could’ve caused JUST the fenders to get pops? I waited almost an hour between base and clear
With nice flat panels like bonnets and doors it is easy to get the correct paint thickness with your gun distance from the panel and overlap. When you come to guards then it can become trickier because most people spray following the curve of the wheel arch and then go to a horizontal movement once they get above the arch. Very easy to get more paint thickness here and in the curve on the top of the guard as your overlap increases to compensate for a heavy middle because it is closer to the gun.
Depending on ambient temperature an hour flash before clear should be enough but if your base was overly thick in these areas and flash between coats insufficient then solvent pop is a possibility. Other possibilities include reducer choice, force drying of base, air flow in the booth….the list goes on. Really a bit hard to be definitive without having seen the application.
Sherwin Williams have a recommendation to reclear next day without flatting or scotching which they say will fill the solvent pops
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