Spies 8035 vs Dupont 7900S
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The entire vehicle will be color sanded and buffed to perfection but what benefits would I see using the 8035 over 7900s other than the price difference? I can get 2 gallon kits of the Dupont for $500 and about the same for a gallon kit of the spies. I may end up flow coating as well. Using a basic cross draft booth with no heat as well. Sata 3000rp with a 1.3
I have used a bit of both. 7900 is a bit thin and is an ok clear. If your going to flat sand and reclear it would be an alright clear.
8035 is a very nice clear but seems to prefer a 3000 RP with a 1.2.
For a cross draft 7900 may get out of dust a bit quicker for you and dry up quicker. For appearance i like 8035. 7900 will be a bit easier to apply for some people who are used to thinner clears.
One thing to note is that price of a gallon kit doesn’t mean much. You will pay less for the 7900 but will use a ton more. 8035 goes a long way. If you buy clear based on the price of a gallon you will usually pick a crappy clear. I would be willing to bet in the end the 8035 is cheaper if applied correctly.
Basically I’m looking for the best durability when it comes to the elements combined with price, looks and how far it will go. I’m going to be spraying my extended cab silverado and just doing some homework. I haven’t used anything any higher end than the 7900s. I’ve even looked at the Glasurit 923-255. I guess I could get any Glasurit clear from the supplier if there was one better looking or more suited for crossdraft. I’d rather have something that doesn’t solvent pop as well and I know alot of it has to do with application and air flow.
What are you using for a base coat?
If I use Spies or Dupont I’m going to use spies basecoat. If I use Glasurit I’m using Diamont. My supplier doesn’t mix Glasurit paint. I can order it online but I would rather just get it mixed in case I need more I can just run by and get it.
Sounds like sticking with Dupont/Spies is easier for you.
Personally, I would go with the 72500 clear. It is meant more for a downdraft/bake environment, but it will work in your situation with the faster hardener (I think it is the 12303S). This clear has a higher solids content and a really good, durable finish. I would just spray 2 nice coats and be done. No need to sand/reclear or polish. But, that is just my preference.
Well I know it’s going to have trash in it because the booth that I’m able to use isn’t the greatest. I want a show quality finish on it anyway so I’m expecting to cut and buff. Also have a guy bringing me a truck that wants a show quality finish on it in a few months. He is having it bagged, body dropped, door handles shaved and bed shaved right now. This is just a hobby of mine but really want to try some new products. I did a friends truck a few months back and when he got it back it was perfect. After about 2 months I guess the clear has started to die back and you can see the areas where small dents have been repaired. The truck is black. I didn’t have that issue when I did mine but I’m sure it had to do with the cheap clear we used.
I doubt the clear was the reason why you can see the repairs.
Filler used was Rage Gold sanded down with 80 then went over with 220 on DA. Primer used was nason 2k. Primed and guide coated twice. Filler was done one day. Priming 1 to 2 days later. 1 day for primer to cure before between guide coats and final wet sanding with 500. 2 more days before actually spraying. Should have been enough time for everything to shrink and cure I would think. The outside temps were in the 80’s and I even let the truck sit in the sun for a whole day before final sanding. Never used that Nason primer either though. Basecoat was chromabase and clear was Zolatone Euro clear. I’ve never had anything else do this which led me to believe it was the clear. What reasons could it be for this to happen after 2+ months?
I would say there was 15 minutes between each basecoat as well. I sprayed 2 coats. It was dull before applying clear. Application of clear was 3 coats with roughly 15 minutes between each coat as well. It was tacky but did not string.
Poor prep / wasent done correctly.
Rage gold is a good filler and won’t shrink. Blocking with 80, then running over with 220 on a DA is not going to get you the straightest panel.
I have used a lot of the Nason 421 2k primer. It is actually a pretty good product, and does not shrink. I have seen my work with it after several years, and it hold up just fine. Only really important things with it, is to allow adequate flash time between coats (or it won’t dry properly) and to use a good etch over all your bare metal first.
220 on a da over bodywork is a sure way to make it wavy.The combination of lower quality products from different manufacturers also does not help.Finally if your base is dull it dosen’t mean it is ready to clear,bare minimum wait time between base and clear should be 30 mins in a booth moving lots of air.When I use solvent base on a complete I care about I will wait 1hr,this one step will improve gloss.When using a cheaper 2k primer it is also a good idea to use a sealer just incase the primer is porous(most cheap 2k’s are full of talc and the possibility of the top coat soaking in are inevitable)
Personally I would get your booth and vehicle as clean as possible and mask to keep the dirt out and use the dupont clear and call it done.As far as primer shrinking they all do it,that is why taking the extra steps to prep it properly and not pile on too much go a long way in a lasting repair.Try an experiment…. mix up some primer and leave a 1/4 inch in the bottom of the cup and leave it for a week or two,you will be surprised how much smaller it is by the end of the time period.
Filler was straight to metal. I blocked it with 80 grit on a long block. After that I ran over it with some 220 on the block and featheredged the surrounding areas with 220 on the da. I primed with the 2k primer and blocked with 220, primed again, blocked with 220 and final primer. Everything was straight. Some of the repair areas seem to have lost gloss. It’s not that they aren’t straight. I may not have allowed enough flash time between coats of primer. I do remember when I was spraying it was getting late in the evening and may have rushed the final coat. I thought for sure after a few days of drying it would have cured though. Especially after sitting in the sun.
And going right to 220 from 80 grit is too big a step. I bet there were plenty of 80 grit scratches that were not removed. Nice big scratch for everything to sink back into over time
That’s quite possible. I normally use Metal glaze over the rage gold after 80 grit and then go over that with 220. I did a few areas that way and I don’t think those areas are showing through.
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