Spray Can Primers with Water

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  • This topic has 46 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by Brad.
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  • November 19, 2010 at 8:58 pm #25241

    I am using BASFs Onyx waterborne paint and am wondering if anyone has found a spray can product that works effectively under this paint. This would be just for minor break-threws on edges and what not. They tell me they don’t recommend any but its just so much more convenient to be able to. Any thoughts?

    November 19, 2010 at 9:18 pm #25243

    I have heard spray can primer is a huge no-no under water.

    Two things that might help. Mix up some epoxy each morning reuced down with some blending reducer. The pot life should be long enough to last the whole day. Just blow some on the cut-throughs. Or use a waterborne primer/sealer if you have it. It should be good to go in a cup all day also.

    Having to mix up sealer for a little cut through on every job gets annoying.

    November 19, 2010 at 10:50 pm #25248

    hey what about uv primer? no solvents in that to screw things up. but is it an effective sealer?

    November 19, 2010 at 11:03 pm #25250

    i use sherwin williams spreadable primer surfacer. comes in a tube similar to adhesives, comes with a static mixing tube and all u do is spread it. no mixing. no masking. and its 2k. pretty cheap as well i think i pay like less then 6.00 per tube.

    November 20, 2010 at 3:53 am #25256

    With PPG and DuPont I have used many different aerosol primers under water base. Mostly the DuPont and PPG self etching primers, though.

    Obviously there are better products, but for small burn throughs and the odd unseen part (like a small repair on a rad support) it has worked very well.

    Have you actually tried it with the Onyx?

    November 20, 2010 at 7:06 am #25269

    [quote=”Ben” post=15436]With PPG and DuPont I have used many different aerosol primers under water base. Mostly the DuPont and PPG self etching primers, though.

    Obviously there are better products, but for small burn throughs and the odd unseen part (like a small repair on a rad support) it has worked very well.

    Have you actually tried it with the Onyx?[/quote]

    Dupont and Sikkens both say not too. It will fail in the long run. I would stay away from them. The epoxy works very good and you don’t have to sand it. Just mix in the morning, over reduce and use to hit bare metal spots before paint all day. Easy enough.

    November 20, 2010 at 11:57 pm #25318

    WE use standox aerosol primers no problem.Don’t use etch aerosol primers .

    November 21, 2010 at 1:17 am #25320

    I’ve been debating on getting one of those rechargeable aresol cans just for this reason.
    But then again, in the end unless you’re using a 1k product are you really saving yourself any time in comparison to putting it in a spray gun and spotting it in? :blink:

    November 21, 2010 at 6:33 am #25333

    with the enviro, if i have a breakthrough the clear, it’s not a problem, because the water won’t fry up the clear.

    November 21, 2010 at 8:43 am #25337

    I’m pretty sure Jimmo is talking about bare metal break throughs.

    November 21, 2010 at 10:59 pm #25347

    Not supposed to put waterborne basecoat over etch.

    November 22, 2010 at 12:23 am #25348

    I think Ryan has a good idea with mixing up some epoxy in the morning for the breakthroughs. I’ve never used the spray can etch or high builds under water I always lay sealer down before. Has anyone ever tried going water over top? i’d be curious to know what the repercussion was. Does anyone know why you’re not suppose to do it

    November 22, 2010 at 3:03 am #25352

    early morning mix of epoxy sealer is the ticket… :clappy

    November 22, 2010 at 3:13 am #25354

    [quote=”timbo” post=15526]early morning mix of epoxy sealer is the ticket… :clappy[/quote]

    your still mixing, masking, spraying, cleaning the gun…throwing away unused product.

    November 22, 2010 at 3:45 am #25355

    i’ve use etch prime quite abit, for those spots where is don’t want to spot seal, just becasue it’s a pita to deal with the effects of spot sealing.
    i’ve never had a problem useing etch prime, i will put a light coat on the spot and wait a few minutes, then go to painting. the only thing is you got to make sure it is covered when baseing, i did find that out the hard way.

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