Spraying Candy Red
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- This topic has 23 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 8 months ago by dave.
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- March 29, 2013 at 4:48 am #42484
Hello everyone, this weekend I’ll be spraying my first motorcycle gas tank, and it will be going candy red over a silver, it’s SEM ColorHorizons and will be using Deltron 500 I think it is, for mixing the concentre. I forgot to mention this will be my first time spraying candy as well, so I need as much tips and help as I can get. As idk how good those products are, thanks everyone
March 29, 2013 at 5:10 am #42485Word of caution,don’t use the sem color horizons.We did a truck for one of the young guys at work with a red sem candy(shovelhead red?) and within 2 years it faded and turned pink and we had to redo it.
March 29, 2013 at 5:19 am #42486Really? I took a piece of the bike in since it was painted by the previous owner and out of all the color chips SEM was the only one we could get a decent match with.
March 29, 2013 at 6:09 am #42488Did it turn pink from sun abuse? Or just the color go away? But I’ll check again and see if we can give it another try to find a match before buying the SEM, would the quality of clear help at all? I mean I live in north west ohio and only have about 3 1/2 months or so of real hot weather so it won’t be out constantly in the sun
March 29, 2013 at 6:20 am #42490HOK or PPG did not match? Lot of choices using apple red and different bases. I’ve got jobs out there for years using those products with no failures.
March 29, 2013 at 10:11 pm #42498The bases can shift a color big time. Also brandywine can be confused with the apple red if its over a light enough base. As far as fading I’m in Florida so fade is a big issue however I would always suggest HOK UFC35 clear the uv protection is very high. It was formulated specialy for candy and the fade problems of candy. With HOK KK and UK are very different. KK is concentrate ment for underhood, jambs, out of direct sunlight areas and it fades faster then UK. I’ve seen people us KK without even knowing and it’s not good. But even if you don’t use HOK candy I would still use HOK clear.
March 29, 2013 at 11:44 pm #42499[quote=”strawberry” post=31345] As far as fading I’m in Florida so fade is a big issue however I would always suggest HOK UFC35 clear the uv protection is very high. It was formulated specialy for candy and the fade problems of candy. With HOK KK and UK are very different. KK is concentrate ment for underhood, jambs, out of direct sunlight areas and it fades faster then UK. I’ve seen people us KK without even knowing and it’s not good. But even if you don’t use HOK candy I would still use HOK clear.[/quote]
Not true. KK can be used for exterior components and in direct sunlight. It’s even stated on the sheet it’s perfect for motorcycles. KK is the same tint that is in UK. UKs are just factory packs. In fact, KK can be added to UC25 to make a UK. The formuias are listed in the tech manual. HOK advises using a quality clear for maximum UV protection. Using their clear is suggested, which is typical of any company. But any quality clear with max UV protection is fine, reps have said so. HOK does not have the market cornered for quality clears. I’ve got bikes out there for years using KKs that are driven almost daily in summer, some see FL sun, and none are failing. Only one has UC35 on it.
There’s no need to use HOK clear when using a PPG Vibrance system. Many of my factory Harley colors are Vibrance. There is not a fade issue when using PPG or other good clears.
If you need to verify this call Coast Airbrush, they will be happy to explain KK usage and more. Coast sold off it’s line of Alsa candiess for nickles on the dollar due to it’s inferiority and failures.
anyline dyes fade ,the only reason UK is supposed to be more lightfast is the UV inhibitors in the product however with additional UV aditives added to any clear you can extend the life of a candy job ,if your not that experianced i would not advise UK i would go for a concentrate in binder as you intended DB 500 is a good one in my book
load your binder up to a max of 4to1 to avoid bleed into your clear i would also advise adding activator to your bases for stability when doing a three stage such as a candy ,use about 10% activator in your base after mixing ,as above additional UV screan is a wise move for any dye based job as no dye is lightfast and all will fade ,some worse than others
March 30, 2013 at 3:20 am #42509HOK class in 2006. Color fade was discused. My memory is bad but there was a number of measurement of UV in KK and UK. In the UK was a like a 7.3 and the KK was around 3. But if you run your KK in a high UV clear I would think it would have a higher number. I know the basecoats have no UV anything in them. Maybe it’s diff becuase candy has a hardner. Is the UV in the hardner like for UK? How about clear is UV in the clear or the hardner? I’m am not 100% on my info but I have some new questions to check out.
March 30, 2013 at 3:48 am #42510That’s what one of my questions was going to be, if I used a better quality clear with UV protection, would it help against fading?
March 30, 2013 at 3:53 am #42511[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=31355]anyline dyes fade ,the only reason UK is supposed to be more lightfast is the UV inhibitors in the product however with additional UV aditives added to any clear you can extend the life of a candy job ,if your not that experianced i would not advise UK i would go for a concentrate in binder as you intended DB 500 is a good one in my book
load your binder up to a max of 4to1 to avoid bleed into your clear i would also advise adding activator to your bases for stability when doing a three stage such as a candy ,use about 10% activator in your base after mixing ,as above additional UV screan is a wise move for any dye based job as no dye is lightfast and all will fade ,some worse than others[/quote]
I’m not really sure on your mixing tips, as I’m fairly new to this industry. You mean mixing the concentrate 4:1 with the dB500? And activator being what? Reducer?
March 30, 2013 at 4:14 am #42512I don’t have the answers to your questions Strawberry, and I don’t like to make technical presumptions on forums. Call Coast. On bikes I use KK in SG100 then use a good clear over it. Years ago that was suggested by HOK and Coast. Not sure on how they are comparing your data on KK vs UK. Comparing them how? Cleared KK vs cleared UK? How many coats? The green fairing in that thread I posted is done with KK in SG100. That fairing needed to match a bike shot 3 years earlier. All parts look the same today. That bike sees the road on almost a daily basis. Did it fade? Of course it did but I can’t tell. Everything fades to some degree.
March 30, 2013 at 4:40 am #42515[quote=”MetRamos” post=31357]That’s what one of my questions was going to be, if I used a better quality clear with UV protection, would it help against fading?[/quote]
I addressed that question and if you call Coast Airbrush they will provide the same answer as I. Same principle as any paint. Coast is a very large HOK supplier with a staff that has technical knowledge as well as painters who use the products. Do you know what PPGs Vibrance is? None of the bikes I’ve shot using it to match Harley colors have faded to a degree one would notice. Vibrance has custom mixing options just like HOK. In the case of Harley or any other bike there is just the paint code and it’s a done deal. It’s just a tricoat, nothing extraordinary. Clear it and ship it.March 30, 2013 at 3:06 pm #42522I’ve only used HOK KK, with DBC 500,if you use that, get tech sheets online for both. I think the KK mixes up to 10 percent with the 500 then reduce. Make a spray out card with the step down method so you can get an idea how many coats it will take to get a match or to get to the darkness of color you want. Each coat added gets darker.
Use a gun with small nozzle, like1.0 to 1.2, I use a 1.0 touch up gun for bikes. Spray first coat on very light or it will look gritty, see what difference it makes by painting spray out cards first. I also add a little hardner to the candy if I’m going more than 3 coats, the same hardner that I’m using in the final clear. - AuthorPosts
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