Spraying Candy Red
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Thanks for all the input. I still have some questions so I’m going to see a HOK tech expert today. I’ll pass on what I find out. PS I see people say they run KK in DBC500 I always ran it in clear. So see there are many ways people may be doing it. I just wanna find out what HOK says to do. I’m sorry if people feel I speek without knowing I thought this was a place to bounce ideas and knowledge around to build with each other. Just think I could be doing it better. If my info is wrong I wanna correct it. I love painting and that’s why I ask questions or comment on things not to act like I know it all.
[quote=”R1campr” post=31369]I’ve only used HOK KK, with DBC 500,if you use that, get tech sheets online for both. Use a gun with small nozzle, like .1 or .2, I use a .1 touch up gun for bikes. I also add a little hardner to the candy if I’m going more than 3 coats, the same hardner that I’m using in the final clear.[/quote]
Why aren’t you using DX57 in the DBC500 or any tricoats? Where did you read or hear to use clear activator in basecoats? If you are using a tricoat system, DX57 is specified on the TDS. Doesn’t matter if it’s 2,3 coats or more of DBC500. I don’t use a touch up gun for bikes when the whole bike’s background is candy, nor if it’s just BC/CC or any factory tricoat. Graphics yes, for a flowcoat on a small part maybe.I figured out where I was mixed up. I always used clear as my kandy koncentrate vessel. Thats why I thought it needs a hardner like UK. I did look it up and HOK suggests SG100 that is just a clear base coat. In theory though wouldn’t clear with KK give more protection to the dye and then even more protection from the top clear? As long as it’s a good clear.
[quote=”MetRamos” post=31358][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=31355]anyline dyes fade ,the only reason UK is supposed to be more lightfast is the UV inhibitors in the product however with additional UV aditives added to any clear you can extend the life of a candy job ,if your not that experianced i would not advise UK i would go for a concentrate in binder as you intended DB 500 is a good one in my book
load your binder up to a max of 4to1 to avoid bleed into your clear i would also advise adding activator to your bases for stability when doing a three stage such as a candy ,use about 10% activator in your base after mixing ,as above additional UV screan is a wise move for any dye based job as no dye is lightfast and all will fade ,some worse than others[/quote]
I’m not really sure on your mixing tips, as I’m fairly new to this industry. You mean mixing the concentrate 4:1 with the dB500? And activator being what? Reducer?[/quote]
you should use no more than 20 percent concentrate to binder ie 4 to 1 reduce the binder as per manufacturers recomended ignoring the concentrate in the mix ,as i said add activator i mean 2K activator to your base mixes inc your ground colour ,this is a stabilty recomendation and most basecoat systems can be activated to set them up as a single stage paint or for added stability and also to reduce reactions ,the addition of activator also increases the time window for clearing from 24 to 48 hours ,some manufacturers are recomending the addition of activator when doing high film builds such three stage jobs
[quote=”MetRamos” post=31357]That’s what one of my questions was going to be, if I used a better quality clear with UV protection, would it help against fading?[/quote]
yes but dye is still fugent compared to most automotive pigments ,you can buy UV additives and bolster up your clears even further
basicly UK is a clear with dye in it and is a tad more difficult to apply than dye in a basecoat binder ,any runs in UK will show as extremly dark patches and are extremly difficult to rectify ,sags will also show as dark patches ,UK must be cleared as it cannot be buffed effectivly as you risk rub through and light patches being created
most pro’s i know use a basecoat candy not UK becouse of aplication issues ,base being a hell of a lot easier to get right
‘[quote=”strawberry” post=31379] In theory though wouldn’t clear with KK give more protection to the dye and then even more protection from the top clear? As long as it’s a good clear.[/quote]
In theory yes but why bother? What are you going to do when someone brings you a Lava Red Sunglo Harley and you have to match parts? PPG provides it in a tristage. You’re not going to tint clear for the midcoat are you? There are no pearls in that Lava midcoat formula, only 3 dyes in DBC 500(PPG does not call them dyes). KK’s are added to SG100 for custom work, same principle for both companies. You can buy all this through PPG’s Radiance and Vibrance system and create just like HOK. What’s done on bikes in tristage is the same thing done on the cars you paint in tristage.
What have you been using when doing artwork with translucents? You can’t be adding KK to clear are you? It gets added to SG 100.
Quite frankly, I’m not a fan of HOK basecoats and clears although I use basecoats for airbrushing and certain custom jobs. Guys in collision would be throwing fits about how slow it is.
If you put 4 or 5 coats of uv clear with or without KK on a job, chances are its gonna solvent pop. Much less chance using DBC 500 with or without hardner. I use whatever hardner that I’m using in the clear for the DBC 500 because I use sikkens HS+ and I’ve heard years ago to keep the hardner the same throughout a paint job no matter what intercoat clear or uv clear your using. I’m not sayin it’s right but it works for me, if I go strictly by tech sheets I’d be using SG100 with KK instead of DBC500. And the HOK uv clear which I’m not a fan of.
im another who doesnt like HOK clears although i havent tried thier latest compliant range ,the old UC35 never seems to cure out right ,stays soft too long to the point its almost tacky next day ,a recomended 2 hour bake also makes it very expensive ,HOK is definatly an over rated system and some of their KK’s arent very lightfast so you realy have to check the specs for any particular one in that respect
[quote=”ScottB” post=31376][quote=”R1campr” post=31369]I’ve only used HOK KK, with DBC 500,if you use that, get tech sheets online for both. Use a gun with small nozzle, like .1 or .2, I use a .1 touch up gun for bikes. I also add a little hardner to the candy if I’m going more than 3 coats, the same hardner that I’m using in the final clear.[/quote]
Why aren’t you using [color=#bb0000][size=5]DX57[/size][/color] in the DBC500 or any tricoats? Where did you read or hear to use clear activator in basecoats? If you are using a tricoat system, DX57 is specified on the TDS. Doesn’t matter if it’s 2,3 coats or more of DBC500. I don’t use a touch up gun for bikes when the whole bike’s background is candy, nor if it’s just BC/CC or any factory tricoat. Graphics yes, for a flowcoat on a small part maybe.[/quote]
DX 57 is a must,you can get away with it sometimes,but that day will come when it all goes to shit,all because of a $18 bottle of hardener you either forgot or thought wasn’t neccasary.
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