Standox/Spies users
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I sprayed PPG DBC for 10 years and recently switched to standox solvent and 15-60 plus clear. I used an lph400 and w400lv with ppg but couldn’t seem to get as good of results from them with standox. I’ve been using a tekna prolite which is working pretty well for base but not so much with clear. I am considering a ws400 for clear. Just curious which gun/setup others have found to work well with same/similar product?
I’ve been spraying 15-60+ and 16252 with a w400lv 1.3 set up for almost 3 1/2 yrs with nice results spraying 1.5 coats.I recently bought a ws400 evo hd 1.3 IMO it breaks up the clear even better but I havent been using it long.Got mine brand new on ebay real cheap. Well, for an Iwata 😛
Thanks for the reply. I can get decent results with w400lv. I tried 1.3 and 1.4fn. 1.3 seemed to break it up better but I felt it was slow and had to work at it too much. I’d like to hear how the ws400 hd 1.3 works out for you as that’s the exact gun I’ve been considering but am unsure if I should get standard 1.3 or hd version.
we switched from sikkens to standox stando blue and dupont gave me 3 sata rp 4000 spray guns. 1.2 for base. 1.3 for clear and they gave me a extra one for what ever in a 1.2. I used the 16198(15/60 plus ) clear at 1st but didnt like it .So now i use 16252 premium clear i think you will like it much better with either 15/25 and 25/40 hardner i didnt like the 20/30 hardner
I think the problem is more with the clear than the set up, I dont like the 15-60 clear, try the premium or the pfc 30 clear you will not be disipointed. The pfc 30 is my all time favorite clear it is new. Good luck
[quote=”luke” post=30991]Thanks for the reply. I can get decent results with w400lv. I tried 1.3 and 1.4fn. 1.3 seemed to break it up better but I felt it was slow and had to work at it too much. I’d like to hear how the ws400 hd 1.3 works out for you as that’s the exact gun I’ve been considering but am unsure if I should get standard 1.3 or hd version.[/quote]
I’ll gladly do that. I’m impressed with this gun so far. I have noticed that I am moving faster with this gun compared to the w400 and it seems to have a wider pattern. I might test the pattern on each gun and measure them. I also prefer the 16252 clear over the 15-60. The 15-60 does fine for me on bumpers and some panel jobs but the premium clear is a lot esier to get really nice results. I usually adjust the viscosity of both these clears as they will definetly spray different at different viscosities.For me the 15-60 does well at 17 sec. and the 16252 @ around 18 IMO. In hot humid conditions I sometimes add some plasticiser to them to keep the clear “open” longer. To measure viscosity with standox you need to use a din4 cup. :cheer:Thanks for the info guys. I will try the premium clear. Also for any of you using solvent base, what is your preferred method of blending? Do you add reducer or colorless for your final coat? I’ve spoke with two reps and got two totally different answers.
[quote=”luke” post=31005]Thanks for the info guys. I will try the premium clear. Also for any of you using solvent base, what is your preferred method of blending? Do you add reducer or colorless for your final coat? I’ve spoke with two reps and got two totally different answers.[/quote]
That’s kinda a tough one. Sometimes I’ll over-reduce 30% on top of already reduced b/c . Sometimes I go 1:1 or even 2:1 with colorless b/c. It mostly depends on the color. Some metallics don’t do well when over-reduced IMO. I almost always over-reduce the last coat on a light solid color. When fading in a blend I will reduce gun pressure,increase gun distance,and slow down enough as to keep from having a dry blend. I also angle the gun in toward the repair and feather the trigger from outside in. So all of this is a matter of personal preference. What works for me might not work for the next guy. Hope this helps.
Dlambert, I agree all colors behave differently. My question was rather vague. More specifically light metallics with silver dollar flake have given me some trouble by looking darker on the sidetone or flop near the end of the blend. I assume it’s caused by the flake laying incorrectly in this area. Applicator error, I’m sure, but I haven’t been able to figure it out. I even had one of my jobbers techs come in to show me how it’s done. IMO his looked worse than mine have. His response was “the customer will never see that”, maybe not but I’m still not ok with it. Thanks again, you’ve been very helpful
I have been having the same issue especially with silvers. Now that Im using the wetbed/orientation coat before base coating the issue has now dissapeared. And no need to over reduce the base or add colourless to it.
I was assuming you were putting down a wet bed first. If not you need to spray it to the end of the panel. Usually when there is a dark flop in a certain area the flakes are laying flat instead of standing up where theyr’e suppose to. Too much or too slow of a reducer can make this happen or maybe too low air pressure. One way I was taught for blending and flake control was that after acheiving coverage add reducer or colorless to the mix and apply over the last coat before it flashes all the way but not too soon or it will “get lost” in what’s already there. Hope you can resolve this. Seems like you realy care about the quality of your work. :cheer:
Yes ive used spie hecker and currently use standox solvent base. And have always put my wet bed colourless base on first always to the edge of panel espicially the big coarse flake silvers is always a must with slow or medium thinner depending on temprature.I use to have that problem as well with mottle on some silvers. :pcorn:
[quote=”luke” post=30991]Thanks for the reply. I can get decent results with w400lv. I tried 1.3 and 1.4fn. 1.3 seemed to break it up better but I felt it was slow and had to work at it too much. I’d like to hear how the ws400 hd 1.3 works out for you as that’s the exact gun I’ve been considering but am unsure if I should get standard 1.3 or hd version.[/quote]
Luke, I’ve used this gun for about a month now and I’m quite impressed with it. I did demo a supernova 1.3 when they first came out. It did a nice job but IMO was a little slow. The hd 1.3 is much faster and really sprays a soft pattern. I recommend you demo one for a while if you can. I wouldn’t buy any gun without trying it. Maybe give the 15-60 a shot with this gun. Like I posted earlier I like spraying this clear around 17sec vis. That may or may not work for you. I really like knowing the viscosity of my clears. Also try to match your hardener&reducer with the booth temp. With Standox there is a good bit of overlap in theyr’e temp. ranges so I also take the size job,humidity,and peel I’m trying to match into consideration.Also try different pressure settings. Hope this information helps you out. If you decide to go with this gun don’t forget to check on e-bay. I got mine from a place in the U.K. brand new with warranty shipped to USA for a total of $450. :cheer: Here is a job I did last week with this gun and the 15-60 clear @27 psi.
I know I’m repeating myself on here but with the waterborne spies hecker hi-tec you can blend high metallic colors with your eyes closed and still have them come out right. You guys should think about switching from solvent to water. Its going to be mandatory everywhere soon probably anyway. :readthis:
Been using Standox solvent base for the past two years, on light metallic colours I always mix some 599 with reducer at a ratio around 1/1. I put this down first and blend my colour into it, never had an issue but you must match your colour well. :cheers
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