Standox/Spies users

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  • April 1, 2013 at 5:38 pm #42556

    [quote=”Xchaser” post=31399]Been using Standox solvent base for the past two years, on light metallic colours I always mix some 599 with reducer at a ratio around 1/1. I put this down first and blend my colour into it, never had an issue but you must match your colour well. :cheers[/quote]

    I use the 599 that way sometimes but more often I use the ready to spray basecoat colorless (16150) I agree about matching your color well and add that the color can be off a little but if the flake size and/or the color flop are not right it will not blend well at all. :cheers

    April 5, 2013 at 5:54 am #42620

    Thanks all for the tips,and thanks Dlambert for the feedback on the ws400. Your work looks great. I’ve been experimenting with different hardeners and viscosities. The 16252 seems too slow to me. Maybe I don’t have the airflow that you guys do. I also don’t have a bake booth so everything must airdry.

    April 5, 2013 at 6:12 am #42622

    [quote=”luke” post=31462]Thanks all for the tips,and thanks Dlambert for the feedback on the ws400. Your work looks great. I’ve been experimenting with different hardeners and viscosities. The 16252 seems too slow to me. Maybe I don’t have the airflow that you guys do. I also don’t have a bake booth so everything must airdry.[/quote]
    Standox has a fast dry additive you can use in place of thinner up to 5%. I only use it in the 15-60 for bumper and small side panel jobs because in that clear it can cause dieback on large or horizontal panels. I’ve been told that it does well in the 16252 so it may help in your shop. :cheer:

    April 5, 2013 at 6:16 am #42623

    [quote=”luke” post=31462]Thanks all for the tips,and thanks Dlambert for the feedback on the ws400. Your work looks great. I’ve been experimenting with different hardeners and viscosities. The 16252 seems too slow to me. Maybe I don’t have the airflow that you guys do. I also don’t have a bake booth so everything must airdry.[/quote]
    Standox has a fast dry additive you can use in place of thinner up to 5%. I only use it in the 15-60 for bumper and small side panel jobs because in that clear it can cause dieback on large or horizontal panels. I’ve been told that it does well in the 16252 so it may help in your shop. :cheer:

    October 30, 2014 at 7:45 am #47832

    I try to keep atleast one eye open while blending. Lol . But seriously as mentioned earlier in the post it’s very important to have the right flake and flop in your color so its really nice to have a spray-card before you start blending. This may sound weird but something I’ve started doing is to first
    get coverage then put down blending clear from the edge of the base to just about the edge of the panel with another gun and imediately blend into it then I jack the pressure up to around 29 psi and go over the previous coat holding the gun back a little putting sort of a mist coat (but not a dry coat ) almost imediately over the last. This has been working well for me. BTW , I spray standox solvent.

    November 1, 2014 at 4:33 am #47842

    I use mipa solvent at our shop and have allways battled with siver blends or metalics with high silver content untill i started to lay a wet bed of clear binder/basecoat ! Believe me i thought this was a bit over-complicated at first but now have a dedicated old devilbiss gti at the ready with clear blend for these colours and i dont even think about the dredded blend coat ! I Actually lay a wet bed on my blend area before all 3 coats of colour not sure if its needed but it has transformed my blends and even if the colour isnt a great match the blends are almost invisable and halo is not problem either ! I just flick into the wet bed and when its dry it looks great and i am a self taught painter so did feel a bit proud of my self lol, the moral is if i can do it then a chimp could ! But thats probably affending the chimp :rofl

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