Static charge on car
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Does anyone have a good cheap way of eliminating Static before painting?
I am looking at one of these Ionix Static Eliminator guns but dont know if they really work or not.
Here in Southern Nevada Static is a big problem.http://www.ionixtechnologies.com/auto_refinishing.html
Have thought about just wrapping a chain around axle and having it lay on floor but I dont know how well it would work as I haven’t tried it yet.
Any thoughts or Ideas? what do you use?
grounding the vehicle with an old booster cable to a ground wire through the wall into the ground out side
A wipe down with a water based degreaser helps too I’ve found. They tend to be a water/alcohol mix, with anti static agents added.
Get a gallon of PPG DX103. Put some in a gun and dust over the panels and surrounding plastic. It will take the static right away. Don’t spray wet, just mist. It’s cheap, fast, and easy.
I’ve used the DX103 too, currently using a sherwin williams alcohol based cleaner. I’ve tried grounding the cars too with a jumper cable but didn’t notice any difference.
Dennis, what exactly are you trying to do?Eliminate static for what purpose?
Brad
Hi Brad
When ever I pull a car into the booth ready for paint the thing has a static charge so heavy it pulls dust and anything out of the air onto the body like a Magnet After you tack it off and look at it you say to yourself I just wiped that! my booth is clean too its weird. doesn’t matter how well I pre wipe the car or Mop the floor of the booth :blush: :blink: :huh:The Static is so bad in this area any time you touch something you get Zapped not little Zaps either BIG ones :cens winter is worse than summers but still its bad here year round. :S I have never lived in an area were the static is so bad. :blink:
Might be all the Bombs they tested here years ago who knows :lol1I’m not trying to eliminate getting Zapped all the time although that would be nice but I would like to eliminate the static cling off the cars before painting.
So no one has tried this gizmo or knows of some one who has
[img]http://www.ionixtechnologies.com/images/AF4color.jpg[/img]
http://www.ionixtechnologies.com/auto_refinishing.html
We used something similar that had a radioactive isotope in it. Worked great but cost to much. Let us know how that thing works. I had a similar problem back when we had a cross flow booth, but the problem went away with a new pressurized positive flow down draft.
[b]Brad Larsen wrote:[/b]
[quote]We used something similar that had a radioactive isotope in it. Worked great but cost to much. Let us know how that thing works. I had a similar problem back when we had a cross flow booth, but the problem went away with a new pressurized positive flow down draft.[/quote]Hi brad do i understand your post correctly your booth runs on positive pressure ?? and not negative pressure.
maybe i am not understanding the term [b]positive flow down draft[/b] correctly
Positive pressure booths are highly illegal over here. been that way for a long time now
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]A wipe down with a water based degreaser helps too I’ve found. They tend to be a water/alcohol mix, with anti static agents added.[/quote]This is what i do and it works pretty well especially on the subaru bumpers, the ones that come in raw black plastic always seem to be the worst.
Nick, paintbooths in the States run on slight positive pressure. When we got our Quads installed the guy from Junair told me about the differences between booths in the UK and here. Funny how some things are so different. How much negitive pressure are you’ll supposed to run?
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nick, paintbooths in the States run on slight positive pressure. When we got our Quads installed the guy from Junair told me about the differences between booths in the UK and here. Funny how some things are so different. How much negitive pressure are you’ll supposed to run?[/quote]To be honest Ryan i am not sure of the actual required negative pressure, as i dont have a magnehelic gauge installed on my booth. I really should have one :blush: .
I just keep an eye on the pressure’s i know when it changes from negative pressure to positive pressure the filters need changing 😉 .
I remember the days when we had positve pressure booths, i reckon the jobs were a lot cleaner then, as the booth was not sucking outside contamination in.
I am still surprised that you have positve pressure booths if the seals are not in tip top condition this type of booth will release Isocyanates into the open workshop.
OK, here’s my secret, laugh if you want, but it works.
I use Endust with clean shop rags for all my tacking.
It removes static, and removes dust better than a tack rag.
It leaves no residue and never interferes with painting.
Seriously,
I have been useing Endust for over 10 years now and will
never go back to tack rags again.Well technically Endust is a Mixture of odorless mineral spirits and Trichloroethane (Chlorothene).
Only thing that would worry me about using it is the Butane propellant might leave a dry powdery residue.
And also because Chlorothene is one of the chlorinated hydrocarbons (Although one of the most diluted)
I would be worried because of it being an oxidant although mild. It will increase the oxidation of metal…
I guess if it isn’t a bare metal surface though. There probably wouldn’t be much problem.I do also have a problem with static on a lot of cars… You can see dust flying sideways in the booth… pretty crazy stuff.
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