Suggestions on how to protect unfinished bodywork?
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Hello, first off I want to say that I do realize most of you are professionals and will probably shun all of what I am about to say. Ok, neighbor boy needed a fender on his truck and has a very limited budget (works at Burger King) . We found a fender and I actually sprayed it with enamel tractor paint that he bought at Tractor Supply. Turned out pretty good! Anyway, he has today off and had began doing more bodywork. He started to fiberglass around his wheel wells. Now, what should we do to keep his bodywork from getting ruined while he drives it? It is the only vehicle he has to drive. Seems like I have seen many vehicles with unfinished bodywork with primer on them. It seems like this primer never works as I seem to always see rust bleeding through or just showing. Should he just prime it with a cheapo spray bomb and then grind it off when he begins working on it again? Thanks as always! Jack :rock
If I was driving a vehicle that was being repaired I would try to do a panel at a time or atleast a repair at a time and get it under the best primer you can afford. If there’s not a lot of bare metal you could use a spray can etch primer with a good 2k primer over it. I did an old pick-up like that and drove it for 3 years in primer with no problems. You could also look into an epoxy primer but I haven’t had much exp. with those but I’m sure other folks here have. Good luck. :cheer:
epoxy primer is the way to go. its the only totally waterproof primer. epoxy seals everything out. moisture slowly works its way through etch and 2k urethanes. you also gotta get all that enamel tractor paint off that thing. your going to run into trouble mixing that stuff with automotive paint.
^ truth!
Epoxy is the only way to roll. I have epoxy patches on my old project truck, some of them are 2 years old. No rust, and I live in rainforest.
If you are doing it on the cheap, i know that Spray Max has a 2k epoxy primer in a spray can, just a suggestion.
[quote=”jim c” post=31675]epoxy primer is the way to go. its the only totally waterproof primer. epoxy seals everything out. moisture slowly works its way through etch and 2k urethanes. you also gotta get all that enamel tractor paint off that thing. your going to run into trouble mixing that stuff with automotive paint.[/quote] Jim you think an enamel tractor and truck paint may give him problems? I just assumed since it was an enamel paint it would be ok. I also assume he already has an enamel paint on it from the factory. But……… I don’t know what paints can be painted over others and such. It’s a 2000 Dodge Dakota I believe. Thanks again! Jack :rock
Epoxy primer is friendly with almost everything, and is very stable. Blast the bare metal with epoxy, and once it’s dry and sanded you can put darn near anything on it.
Thanks Bob! Does this epoxy primer work well over body filler ? He has quite a bit of bodywork to do so I imagine he will have body filler on it and still have to drive it. What he ended up doing temporarily was getting some cheap spray can Rust Oleum enamel primer and paint. He put like 3 coats of primer and 3-4 coats of paint and it seems to have held up well until he can do some more work on it. I appreciate everyones help. Where I live your happy if you just don’t have any rust on your vehicle!
You can put Epoxy primer over the filler than shoot a couple coats of 2k urethane primer after an induction time of maybe 1 hour (check Technical data sheet). Epoxy sands like ass, but most 2k urethane sand nice .
No sweat.
[quote=”unclejack857″ post=31693] Where I live your happy if you just don’t have any rust on your vehicle![/quote]
I live in the rainforest, on the ocean, in Alaska! I don’t think anyone has more rust to deal with than we do :dnc
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