Supernova Hybrid
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Actually I use mostly crappy used junkyard parts :whistle: or I use Empire for A/M. Same stuff as the LKQ whores but a lot less money
Yeah, I’ve gotten my fair share of used parts this week. Geico loves them.
Sikkens is starting to come around for me. Whats so bad about energy pro? Its ten times better than pro air. I have pretty good luck with it. So what would you guys spray if you were still using solvent? I have to use something like HS+ for big jobs due to the fact that energy pro is too fast.
By the way, the supernova is a 1.3, so I could bump to 1.4 or try the hybrid for more speed.
Energy Pro with medium activator at around 80 degrees.
[img]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/scbaran/a2dbc61f.jpg[/img]For booths without bake or low bake I’d use EP250 all day long. I see no reason to use HS other than a bit lower cost. Completes can be done up to say 110/105 with slow activator and a bit of EOA.
What kind of complete a hyundai :rofl Seriously your not going to do a chevy crew cab with the stuff at 110,I call bullshit on that :p Even in a non bake situation superior 250 is fast enough for me.I do not like energy pro and would rather spray superior all day long,our cost on it is around $65 a litre sprayable.
Here are a couple examples of superior 250 just for kicks.
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/016-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/013-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/IMG_1618-1.jpg[/IMG]
And here is my old friend HS+
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/IMG_0170-1.jpg[/IMG]Hey Baron, that booth looks familiar! I don’t remember you doing that car, looks green in the pics??? For a second there, I thought it was that solid blue Volvo that you “covered” for me. 😉 Lol… But seriously, I just don’t understand the gripe with Energy Pro 250??? It is a FANTASTIC clear! ABSOLUTELY FAST. But if you need a clear that can produce, lay down nice, hold it’s gloss, and keep your gas bill down, this is the clear to roll with if you are a Sikkens user. I think that Superior 250 is one of the nicest clears on the market, but Energy Pro is a great clear, with its own place and purpose. I just don’t agree with the negative comments about Energy Pro. I use it on EVERYTHING. I never have to buff for texture (peel), or loss of gloss. And I am spraying 95% late model European vehicles with fairly flat finishes. I use a Sata 3000 RP with a 1.3 tip, fluid knob turned in about 3/4 turn from full open, fan wide open. 30 psi at the digital regulator. I have sprayed front bumper, hood, fender, front door, rear door, quarter panel, decklid, rear bumper, and all handles and mouldings in ONE SHOT, with slow activator, and it looked fantastic! With a shot of Elasto-Active to help slow it down a bit, I am fairly confident I could shoot a mid-size sedan complete with NO ISSUES. Jayson… Those “resto” jobs look great, and I don’t know what your situation is, but if you need to knock out 5+ jobs per day, and they are not all completes, Energy Pro is a SWEEEEEET clear IMO…
I had to do completes with HC7600. Try keeping that smooth and wet :pcorn:
Have you guys ever heard of starting a complete in the middle of the roof? Not just on one style of car, but doing it everyday on all cars.
I didn’t say it couldn’t be done on a small car like a hyundai,but you sure would have a tough time on a 08 chevy crewcab.We have had energy pro for a year and a half so it’s not like I haven’t tried it,I just don’t care for it.Kinda like the 3000rp with a 1.3,I don’t like it either.I do anywhere between 4-8 jobs a day,I hate baking stuff as I lose 30 mins booth time each cycle,so I use some lv accelerator in superior 250 when I need speed.I only use energy pro on a panel or bumper cover,I don’t see the point using it on bigger jobs when superior looks better.
[quote=”chevman” post=23305]Have you guys ever heard of starting a complete in the middle of the roof? Not just on one style of car, but doing it everyday on all cars.[/quote]
I have heard of people doing it but it makes no sense at all,your edge in the middle will be dry and the overspray might not melt in when you get back to it.The right way is to start on the drip rail and move towards the center,go to the other side pick up in the middle and work towards the other drip rail.The key to doing a complete is chasing the wet edge and not panel painting.Do the roof,trunk,right 1/4 door,left 1/4 door,right fender,hood left fender.Sometimes walking the side is a good option also.Someone on the autobodystore forum answered a question about proper sequence for overall paint jobs and stated that he has done thousands of cars and starts in the middle of the roof and comes back toward him and down the side over the hood and then pick up in the middle of the roof.
Thats when I first knew that this guy is not who he professes to be. Also he never talks about how the different paints spray or how different guns handle them, he just has text book answers or wrong advice.
Not trying to start the whole thing up again on here, I just wanted to tell you and Ding what you already know.
Actually I may be out of line by posting names here, but if it is permitted then I think the more people that know the better. A new painter could easily waste a gallon or more of paint by following some of that guys advice.I do all overs tha same as Jayson.
If using a medium solids clear with slow enough reducer you could start in the middle of the roof as it should melt in ok, but I’m not sure why someone would want to. Personally I think it’s a bad idea to start in the middle of any flat panel, I always try and carry a wet edge.
I’ll follow along like a puppy and agree with ryan and jay. However people spray in diff enviroments too with diff airflows. that will dictate as well what you can and cannot get away with. easier to keep a wet edge when you dont have airflow helping to flash what you put on.
Dont worry, Jay and I already know what we know and arent afraid to say so 👿I’ve always started in the middle of the roof in a downdraft booth. Never had problems with a dry edge. It’s all in technique and everyone is different. I get asked all the time why I do it the way I do it…and the answer is: it works for ME. 😉
Try it the other way and see if it works.With a low voc high solids clear(70%) it will kick you in the balls :p
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